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Svolvaergeita Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: Todd Miller on Aug 7, 2010
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View from the top of the Svolvaergeita (The Goat)


This is probably the most famous rock feature in Lofoten. Most climbers will be far more impressed by the sweeping granite wall of Presten, but Svolvaergeita gets more attention.

Svolvaergeita ("The Svolvaer Goat") is a clean granite spire topped by two blocks, or horns, rising straight above the town of Svolvaer. The tradition is to jump from the higher spire to the lower one. The lower summit block is weathering away, and in the winter of 2006/7 a chunk of the inner edge fell off. The guidebook states that the jump is "no longer recommended", but people still do it. Have at it, if that's your thing. The graveyard below adds encouragement. The views from up on the spire are spectacular.

Getting There 

From Henningsvaer, drive to Svolvaer. When arriving to town, you will go through a tunnel - go left at the roundabout after the tunnel. Turn left into Nyveien (sign for Melkerdalen/Nybyen. Follow the road around to the right, then right again, then make a left on the road at the graveyard, then turn left again and drive downhill. Park in front of the school. The trail leaves from here and is marked "Sti/Track".

Head up the trail - shortly after starting the hike you will come to a chain leading up a slab. Go up this, and continue following the blazes up the steep trail to the shoulder above, then cut right over towards Svolvaergeita.

Climbing Season

For the Norway area.

Weather station 20.1 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Svolvaergeita

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Svolvaergeita:
Forsida   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Svolvaergeita

Featured Route For Svolvaergeita
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the summit block, following the last p...

Forsida 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Europe : Norway : ... : Svolvaergeita
P1: (5.7, 30m) Start up the well traveled face/crack to the left of the small tree at the base. Climb up and slightly left, eventually coming to steep hand crack through a bulge. Climb up this (or bypass it to the right) and gain a ramp which leads up and left. With good runnering, it is best to continue on and link this pitch with P2 - its an easy and logical link. If you are already battling rope drag, belay here.P2: (5.7, 20m) Continue up the ramp, climbing around a large boulder at its...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Svolvaergeita Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Making "The Goat" leap!
Making "The Goat" leap!
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful spire of Svolvaergeita from the appr...
The beautiful spire of Svolvaergeita from the appr...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the backside
The view from the backside
Rock Climbing Photo: Closer view
Closer view
Rock Climbing Photo: "The Goat" in the distance
"The Goat" in the distance
Rock Climbing Photo: Svolvaergeita from the town of Svolvaer.  The twin...
BETA PHOTO: Svolvaergeita from the town of Svolvaer. The twin...

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