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Wendell Spire
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Hanson, Sills, 1995
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Al moving up to the second overhang of Svengali.

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This is the first route left of Wendell Spire. Svengali heads up the middle of the first buttress on alligator skin and good cobbles. It has an awkward first move. It is not my favorite climb here.


Draws and a rope.

Photos of Svengali Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Luke climbing Svengali.
Luke climbing Svengali.
Rock Climbing Photo: West face.
BETA PHOTO: West face.

Comments on Svengali Add Comment
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By Sean O'Dell
Apr 29, 2002

IMHO, this stinking thing is every part of the 11a rating. The second of the 2 overhangs you must negotiate has all kinds of tempting cracks on top that LOOK positive until you actually try to pull up on them. I'm glad no one was taking a video of me humping and grunting up that son of a...
By tobias Nitschke
From: CO
Dec 31, 2002

Yeah, but they're positive enough if you trust 'em and pull hard... I like this one. Kind of like one boulder problem stacked on top of another.
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 6, 2003

I also got shut down on the second overhang. I finally made it with a throw for the better holds above the sloppy crimpers. There used to be a small sandy ledge just under the second overhang. After I pulled through the overhang that ledge busted off and sent me scrapping back down the rock. Classic Castlewood! I've also pulled a couple of cobbles off the lower section. Just be heads up.
By Jason Velocity
Apr 29, 2003

I loved this climb, but ran into the same problem with rock blowing out on my. This may be a 5.10 this year, but will be a 5.12 by the time all the holds are gone.
By Geoff U
From: Centennial, CO
Dec 28, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Definitely harder than 10d now - 11a or 11b with supposed holds having broken. The 1st bulge is super awkward; the 2nd seems really hard but wasn't too bad after searching around for a couple minutes. You can avoid using the sloping crimps on the left side....

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