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Sven Towers

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Sven Tower 1 
Sven Tower 2 
Sven Tower 3  

Sven Towers  Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: on Aug 6, 2010
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Sven Towers 1 and 2

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3 sets of Towers labelled 1, 2, 3
East facing the Verde Valley - Morning Sun and Afternoon Shade on those Hot Aug Afternoons.

Getting There 

128 to Palamino Turn left and go toward Gardner Wall / Tom Thumb Trailhead. Turn Right at sign and go toward crag
Stop at the first Morrell Wall Parking Lot.
New park signs will lead you up the Canyon to the saddle.
Towers 1 and 2 are to the left and 3 is down and on the right side of the Apron.

Climbing Season

For the McDowell Mountains area.

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sven Towers

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sven Towers :
Undercling   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   Sven Tower 3
Cary'd Away   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Sven Tower 2
Backbone   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Sven Tower 3
Left Route    5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 185'   Sven Tower 3
Shark Tooth   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Sven Tower 3
Spinal Tap   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 150'   Sven Tower 3
Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA Ergone   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Sven Tower 3
Ergone    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Sven Tower 3
Dermatome    5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Sven Tower 3
Spare Rib   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Sven Tower 3
Spinal Cracker   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Sven Tower 3
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sven Towers

Featured Route For Sven Towers
Rock Climbing Photo: William Nelson going for it!

Spinal Tap 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Arizona : Central Arizona : ... : Sven Tower 3
Start is same as Ergon but traverses right toward and into chimney instead of going straight up at the head wall above horizontal crack and after first bolt on that wall. Psychological crux is stemming out and transitioning into the chimney. Finishes on left arete after 15 feet of chimney climbing straight up....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Comments on Sven Towers Add Comment
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From: Mesa AZ
Aug 11, 2010
The City of Scottsdale and the local AMC members have spent the time to make sure there is trail signage in this area. Although there are a number of faint trails to Sven 1 ... please try and use the trail that leads to 3 and work your way back to 2 instead of blazing up the side of the mountain.
From: Mesa AZ
Oct 31, 2010
@Linda - Its about a 15 min walk to the saddle - 5 minutes to the base of Sven 3
and another 5 minutes back up the hill and over to two and one...
By DamonWilliams
Oct 31, 2015
Anyone have an up-to-date record of topos, first ascent parties, route ratings and FA dates for Sven Towers I,II &/or III? Information does not have to be complete, anything you have will be valuable. Available info seems to be mostly by word of mouth...
From: Mesa AZ
Nov 25, 2015
Talk to Eric Filsinger ... He is writing a book about it.

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