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Sven Slab

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Always & Forever T 
Black Death T 
Cakewalk S,TR 
Changes in Attitude T,S 
Changes in Lattitude T 
Changes in Longitude T 
Chute, The T,S 
Crawl of the Wild, The T 
Dark Passage T 
Direct Hop S 
Ego Trip S,TR 
Hippity Hop S 
I Sinkso T 
Mouse Tracks T 
Nit Nat  T,S,TR 
One for the Road T 
Over the Hill T 
Peaches and Cream T 
Quaker Oats S 
Sven's Traverse T 
Top Line T 
Unknown T,S 

Sven Slab Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 2,000'
Page Views: 19,817
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 3, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Furthest Left (East) portion of the Sven Slab. It ...

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Sven Slab, so named because a Sven saw was used to cut the original trail up to the wall, is probably the most popular granite climbing location near Phoenix after Pinnacle Peak. This is the place to hone those sturdy foot muscles on thin granite crystal and edge climbing. The main wall is home to several nice moderate outings, while the outrigger crag down to the right features some additional harder lines.

Getting There 

Drive south from the intersection of 128th street and Dynamite Road/Rio Verde Drive until you get to a "T", make a left and drive east (high clearance required!!!) until you reach the parking area below Sven Slab. It is possible to drive to the upper area and park there if you want to put your vehicle through it's paces and skip the two minutes it takes to walk up the hill.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

22 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sven Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sven Slab:
The Crawl of the Wild   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Quaker Oats   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Changes in Longitude   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
One for the Road   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mouse Tracks   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Ego Trip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Sport, TR, 90'   
I Sinkso   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Cakewalk   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 90'   
Black Death   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 70'   
Nit Nat    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Unknown   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Dark Passage   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sven Slab

Featured Route For Sven Slab
Rock Climbing Photo: Long crack in the middle of the picture.

One for the Road 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Arizona : Central Arizona : ... : Sven Slab
A really fun route on the looker's left end of Sven Slab. It's an obvious right leaning crack going up the left wall of a gully. Longer than it looks. A very enjoyable pitch, with a crux or two, bomber gear, great easy crack climb. Belay from a tree on a big ledge. A guidebook described a 2nd, pitch, it didn't look worth doing. A quick scramble up and to the right puts you on the ridge and a nice summit. Walk climber's left from the ledge and scramble back to the base to get down. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of Sven Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sven Slabs - McDowell Mountains
Sven Slabs - McDowell Mountains
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff on one of the right-most Sven Slab friction r...
Jeff on one of the right-most Sven Slab friction r...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sven Slab
Rock Climbing Photo: Ski runs up the hawk boulder at sven slabs
Ski runs up the hawk boulder at sven slabs

Comments on Sven Slab Add Comment
Show which comments
From: Scottsdale
May 2, 2008
Note : Getting There - "It is possible to drive to the upper area and park there if you want to put your vehicle through its paces and skip the two minutes it takes to walk up the hill." It is no longer possible or appropriate to do the prior, as you will find fencing!

At this time you must park just off the main access road in what are a couple places to park a few vehicles! If you have higher clearance drive further east to the end to conserve low clearance access for others. This area official resides within the boundaries of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve and should be treated as such!
By Benjamin Smith
May 11, 2008
Just a heads up, made an attempt to climb One for the Road yesterday but got chased off by bees that look like they have a hive at the top of the first pitch. My partner and I moved over to the main bolted area, but were still getting harassed by bees.
From: Scottsdale
Dec 12, 2008
Still, to this day there are bees, likely Africanized, as they are persistent in there harassment / attacks, still atop and around the Sven’s Slab formation.
By noburu Irvine
From: Flagstaff
Nov 8, 2009
Very few bees (like 2 or 3) but no nest today at One for the Road area (11/09)
From: Mesa AZ
May 24, 2010
For you adventurous that love to explore - There is a tunnel to the right of Black Death that you may go up into ... tight squeeze to a chimeny section - Up above - good fifth class solo crack

BEWARE - There is an aggressive Bee Hive above and the suckers are not friendly - sustained numerous stings...

Be Safe - Climb Hard
By Jeremy Jones
Jan 29, 2012
I think all the routes there are sandbagged. Great wall, easy access, but some of the bolts are way off the deck. Be Careful. It was a slab fest! We had allot of fun!
By Phalanges
Feb 3, 2015
Just to update the getting there section, what's listed is now as far as I can tell out of date. Both Sven's slab and the climb's for Tom's Thumb and Gardener's Wall are accessed from a single trailhead and parking lot. The directions in the Weekend Rock were pretty confusing having never been there and with the clearly new setup. Just follow the directions on the Tom's Thumb page.
By Joanna M
From: Tempe
Nov 29, 2015
Seconding Phalanges. The "Getting There" instructions here, in Phoenix Rock II, and Rock Climbing AZ Falcon Guide, all seem to be out of date. To get to Sven Slab you can park in the Tom's Thumb trailhead located here: trailhead on google maps, then head east out of the lot on the Marcus Landslide Trail. It's a 5-10min walk to the climber's trail on your right.

Use this handy map that is posted at the beginning of the Marcus Landslide Trail:
Rock Climbing Photo: McDowell Mountains Trail Map
McDowell Mountains Trail Map

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