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Sven Glückspilz S 

Sven Glückspilz 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Hanspeter Sterchi, André Gigon 1985
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: JJ Furman on Jun 29, 2016

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An Ibex came up from the base and followed us. Ma...

Description 

5 pitches of slab and face climbing on grippy gneiss. Belay stations were comfortable enough for 4 people (though belay #4 was tight). Pitches vary from 35-45 meters. The crux is at the beginning of pitch 3. Pitch 5 is steep but feature rich, short, and fairly easy. (rated 4c/5.6, but seemed easier)

Rap off (2x 50m or 2x 60m)

There are 2 dozen sister climbs on this same cliff. For more information I highly recommend the Filidor Plaisir Ost climbing guidebook.

Location 

Park at the hairpin lot 1 km uproad from Alpin Center Sustenpass. Walk 20 minutes due north on a trail to the base.

Parking lot GPS location = 46.73287 N, 8.41328 E

Protection 

12 Quickdraws, your favorite anchor material.

Rap rings at every belay station.


Photos of Sven Glückspilz Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Closeup of the start (plus my kids for scale).  No...
Closeup of the start (plus my kids for scale). No...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Views from this climb are beautiful.
Views from this climb are beautiful.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me starting P1.
Me starting P1.

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