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"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T 
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Life by the Numbers T 
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers  T 
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Scepter  T 
Sea of Green  T 
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Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 
South (Left) Descent Gully T 
Steve's Twilight T 
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route)  T 
When the Dog Bites  T 

Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route)  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Cormier & Suzy Linemayer, Sept 1997
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Nov 8, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Suzy Q

Description 

A great route! Four stars except for the middle of P1...I really don't trust the tipped out #3 Cam. [Which is why I gave it as 5.8, best be solid at the grade, even if the climbing may only be 5.7+ / 5.8-]

Sometimes climbers leave a rope "fixed" for single strand raps to return to the base after they finished their climb; however, with more top-and-mid-cliff anchors/rap stations appearing this is now less common.

START: at the height-of-land on the climber’s path, about 20-25 ft right of Bullit’s pillar. If you encounter a steep, gravelly descent in the path you've gone to far right.
There is a crack on the right of a 12ft-slab. (Photo) [2013: old piton in the crack, 10ft up. There is a large “home-made” Aluminum hanger on a bolt about 25ft up.]

P1 - Climb the slipperier-than-expected crack [The ancient pin is useless for pro (and might get replaced), but a yellow Alien goes in a foot, or so, below it]. Climb to the bolt, then up right-ish to cracks that lead to an obvious horizontal, flaring crack that grudgingly accepts a blue (#3) Camalot and/or maybe a gold (#2). Climb the 5.6-5.7 face directly above [PG to R depending on how much you trust the tipped-out cam(s) ] or the orange crack to the left. A ledge and a 2nd bolt await above, more face climbing to the cracks and a 3rd bolt and the belay station. 115ft, 5.7+ to 5.8- PG/R? or so.

P2- Climb to the bolt above (via the face or the face-and-arête), move right to surmount the OH (med. Cam placement) and race to the upper anchors (i.e. the rap station) 100ft, 5.6

Protection 

Std Rack, plus #3 (Blue) Camalot-sized cam


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