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BETA PHOTO: JP on Suzuki
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Classic double cracks.
Some of the best backstepping, finger jamming, and stemming that you'll ever see on a 5.10. The two finger cracks provide ample secure jams, and the gear goes in easily.
One route left of Mr. Squiggles.
Fingers to hands. You can probably sink a lot of medium nuts for the first half of the route.
Nov 6, 2012
This route has a fun extension. We had hoped to stay in the contrived finger crack, but a few stacks of blocks convinced us to use the corner. With a few minutes of easy trundling, the finger crack would be good to go. From a belay on the rim, we walked right to the JR Extension anchors and rapped.
Dec 4, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I just walked up to this and did it...and completely flailed and failed. Did not realize that it was a double crack (so much for my 'purity' ethic) OH....Use both cracks? I get it! FUN!!
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Dec 8, 2014
Yep. Probably a tad harder if you ignore the left crack. Makes for a nice 11-ish variation. (a good second stage warmup if you're getting on a fingercrack after) Honestly, it feels more straightforward to me. (albeit more powerful) Pretty sure the left crack has been contrived at 12-/12ish too.