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Susi's Garden 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Manel Casanova(5.8A2) FFA: ?
Season: All
Page Views: 314
Submitted By: harrison t on Sep 4, 2014

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Description 

Another great crack in the Emancipation area.
Scramble up through the boulders and find the best belay.
Start by climbing flakes to the splitter that turns into a left facing corner with gold and green rock. Climb/Stem the dihedral finger crack which also has pretty good face features. At the end of the crack there will be a steep bulge, pull through and start traversing left on the face to another short crack/flake. Place a piece and punch it up and right to the bolt on the very featured/juggy face. After the bolt head up for the anchor on a good ledge.
A little chossy/ricey in spots but is very fun and will clean up nice.

Location 

To the right of Garfield a little ways. Keep skirting the wall until you are at the base of a very featured and steep gold face. Susi's Garden climbs the nice left facing corner. There is also a short wide splitter to the right of the steep gold face.
Single rope rap

Protection 

green c3 to #2 c4.
nuts
2 pins (which have bomber gear right by them)
1 bolt on the upper face


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By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Sep 4, 2014

This was put up by Manel Casanova presumably on solo lead. Here's a link to a picture and description which lists it as 5.8 A2, mountainproject.com/v/10768283.... You guys might have gotten an FFA. I climbed Smear Campaign with Manel two years back, he was trying to solo lead and couldn't make any more progress and I was bouldering without a partner so it turned out to be a fun day and win win for both of us. He mentioned the route (Susie's Garden) and told me someone had chopped some bolts he had put on it...

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