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Feels Like Someone Else T,S 
Freelance Tramps (Variation) S 
Guanica S 
Limbomaniac T,S 
Party's Over, The T 
Pindering to the Masses S 
Resume Builder S 
Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat T 
Susey's Groovy T 
Unemployment Line S 

Susey's Groovy 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain (2000)
Page Views: 2,442
Submitted By: bw1 on Nov 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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sweat climb great route

Description 

well, the book says near this area is the route called "the party's over." i don't want to mix up this route with that one, but with the books' vague description i can guess this is an unnamed route. the route is in an obvious corner of lefthand wall west of "unemployment line" and features an open book stemming fest up top. start with 30 feet of 5.6 where gear can be placed (careful of loose rock). then the fun begins. enjoy some solid stemming through five bolts and end at chains.

Protection 

6 quickdraws, set of stoppers


Photos of Susey's Groovy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's the topo for this with Unemployment line an...
BETA PHOTO: Here's the topo for this with Unemployment line an...
Rock Climbing Photo: I think this is on this route. Hard to tell since ...
BETA PHOTO: I think this is on this route. Hard to tell since ...

Comments on Susey's Groovy Add Comment
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By David Lammers
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 31, 2008

I climbed the bottom direct (like the description states) with a #2 BD cam and a #1 Metolious tricam. It is a fun climb and this path gave it a good flow.
By David K
Jan 30, 2009

I just scrambled to the first bolt. Sure it's a long runout but if you're leading 5.8+ you shouldn't have a problem.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 20, 2009

Good addition to the crag. I would do it again.
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Nov 4, 2009

classic climb that takes pro before the bolt if your worried about running it out.. friend said it reminded him of some gunks climbs
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 6, 2009

This is a fun climb that breaks up a lot of the other climbing in the area, I would highly recommend it as something a little different to do while you're at hairpin.
By smithb
From: Flagstaff, Az
May 11, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Freelance Tramps is the new variation on the left with 3 additional bolts.
By Myk BROWN
From: tucson, az
Dec 26, 2011

Fun climb. If you don't have gear and want to do the crack on the bottom, it's easy enough to clip the first 3 bolts on Freelance Tramps and still stay on easy ground. Has Mussy hooks at anchors.
By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson
Apr 20, 2017

wild to see the names on this FA. A great dihedral, by the way.

I met Todd and Donette at a remote climbing area in Columbia last year. While I was there Many of the younger climbers would gather each night and buy Todd beers until he opened up and told a story or two. Todd and his wife are both great and had nothing but good things to say about Tucson. At this point they have both fully retired and now travel the world and develop climbing areas full time.

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