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Survival of the Fittest 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2006
Page Views: 2,169
Submitted By: Muff on Sep 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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At the anchors on Survival of the Fittest

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great long route.

Location 

Left of Natural Selection (5.12c), but shares the first bolt with that route.

Protection 

13 bolts, ring anchors


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By Choncho
Feb 4, 2013

ACs grade assessment is accurate.
By Greg Parker
Administrator
From: Cardiff, CA
Feb 16, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Agreed. 12b.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

very top section (routes old crux) is definitely harder compared to when I got the red point on it. Someone broke up loose holds up top making the crux harder and maybe height dependent. When I made the move on TR I was almost completely horizontal and doing a reachy move to past the crux...
By John Ericson
From: USA
Jun 8, 2014

Like many quarry climbs, this route has several no hands rests, which makes pump management much easier than one might believe from reading the guidebook description. The upper crux felt V3 to me.
By James Weiss 1
From: Pasadena, California
Sep 30, 2014

One of my favorite routes at the Quarry. Highly recommend.
By Chrisopher R.
From: Chatsworth, Ca
Nov 24, 2015

I'm 5'6" maybe 5'7" in my approach shoes, and the final crux did not feel very reachy despite what breakage may have happened. With a heal hook and a funky step through I was good to go. Stellar route.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the anchors on Survival of the Fittest
At the anchors on Survival of the Fittest
By Alex Shainman
From: Redlands, CA
Dec 8, 2016

The crux (upper hard move over a bulge) apparently received more breakage recently and the difficulty is quite a bit harder now. It's very out of character with the rest of the route and a bit of a shoulder wrecker. The right hand that was, I believe, a mini brick shaped pinch is gone. What remains is a small low crimp and that's it, other than that miserable sloper out there for the left hand.
By brentjw2 Wright
Mar 24, 2017

First time on this route today the upper crux must have seen some key holds break for it to be 12.b.... only has a miserable sloper and a low crimp, which for me were just too low to reach anything. However I believe there is potential to dyno from the good holds before the sloper and crimp to the jug above the crux. If it wasn't for the upper crux this route would be stellar.

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