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4. Middle Forist Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Berliner (Ich Ben Ein Berliner)  T 
Green Mile, The T 
Hostile Territory T 
Mantle Peace S 
Middle Forist (Climb) T 
Old Days T 
Shining Path  T 
Skate-y Cat T 
Surveyer's Route (The Flake) T 

Surveyer's Route (The Flake) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: probably Paul Cormier, then cleaned by Brad White & Dave Kelly
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Aug 3, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: S Matz on the TR-Variation, left of the layback fl...

Description 

START - Down and right of Middle Forist, at a slab below THE flake.

This is climb #14 in the pamphlet guide.

P1 - Scramble up the ladder (A-1 ?!) and head for the flake. (A good cam placement at the base, then only thin wired nuts along the "layback" flake. [finger tips at best). At a good horizontal, step right onto the slab. Then up (gear only) past one not-so-solid right-facing flake, and continue on (5.5 PG-13 ?) horizontal flakes and small ledges to the anchor shared with "Berliner". 100-110 ft 5.7 / 5.7+ PG-13.

Top Rope Variation [photo]- Climb the dark rock a few feet left of the layback flake, continue straight above the overlap and horizontal crack (i.e. don't step right). Merge with the regular line about 20-25 ft above the horizontal. 5.9 / 5.9+

Protection 

Gear - thin wires for crux section.
Beware placing any cams behind the not-so-solid flake (good gear in crack a couple of inches higher) Bad enough you'll be standing on the flake, you don't want it prying out with cam-action if you blow the move onto the flake.


Photos of Surveyer's Route (The Flake) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: No, this is NOT the "2nd Step" on the No...
BETA PHOTO: No, this is NOT the "2nd Step" on the No...
Rock Climbing Photo: Surveyer's Route (The Flake), start
BETA PHOTO: Surveyer's Route (The Flake), start

Comments on Surveyer's Route (The Flake) Add Comment
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By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Aug 3, 2016

The guide gave it a 5.7 and that's how I put it in, but I thought the moves more difficult ("fat fingers"???) You also could go a fair distance if you didn't have a good wired nut in the thin crack. Maybe not "PG-13" but MntPrjct doesn't have a "PG".

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