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Dead Horse Crag
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Cage Monkeys T,S 
Days Between, The T,S 
Homage T,S 
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Surrender to the Air 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: BJ Sbarra & Mike Schneiter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 7, 2007

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Setting up for the crux on Surrender to the Air.


This is probably the best route on the wall, and it's certainly my favorite.

Clip a bolt to protect the start and climb underneath the roof before traversing right to a "horn-like" feature. Above, place a couple of good pieces, including a #5 Camalot, before firing the crux. Make big moves on good holds through the crux before heading back left to a bolt. Finish by climbing up the face and into a left-facing corner and to a ledge above, where a two-bolt anchor is situated on the left wall.


Underneath the steep roof in the center of this crag is some red, loose rock that looks like it came from the Fishers. Above this rock lies the great, hard quartzite and a bolt protecting the start of the climb. This is the 6th route from the left, although two routes share the same start. It's the 3rd route from the right.


Two bolts, and a selection of nuts and cams up to #5 Camalot.

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By Mike Bannister
Sep 13, 2013

Very cool route.

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