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Surprising Slab 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Woodruff and Ray Snead, 1979.
Page Views: 3,897
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Near the top.

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  • Description 

    Start left of where the rope falls. Most of the climb is done to the left of the rope. The begining is fairly easy with lots of big holds. About half way up the climb gets harder with some interesting balance techniques and opposing forces. The top is easy and if you follow the route you should have to traverse about 10 feet to the chains.

    Protection 

    Chains are at the top providing a very quick and easy set up. A large tree is up there too for a backup if you desire. Bring a long sling for it.


    Photos of Surprising Slab Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ok, this was near Finger Crack, which is good.
    Ok, this was near Finger Crack, which is good.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Surprising Slab.
    Surprising Slab.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Danny moving up just right of the rope on Surprisi...
    Danny moving up just right of the rope on Surprisi...

    Comments on Surprising Slab Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jeremy Monahan
    From: Fort Fun, CO
    May 20, 2002

    Definitely not worth doing. Not much pro at the bottom. Gets better at the top, but it still sux. Better climbing to be had right of this route.
    By Matt Rutledge
    Jul 15, 2002

    If this is the route I think it is, I'm going to have to disagree with the bomb rating. Sure, there is little to no gear for leading, but this is a fun TR. The hand holds are far apart and maybe not so good, but the feet just appear like magic.
    By Charles Danforth
    From: L'ville, CO
    Jun 27, 2006

    A bomb? Come on, people. Maybe not classic, but fun and thoughtful. Harder but more interesting than the right-hand route on this face. You can make this one as hard or as easy as you want on TR.
    By mebbing
    From: Bend, Oregon
    Aug 11, 2006

    Anybody know if there is a name for the route just right of where the rope falls - and does the wall with chains just to the right of this wall have a name?
    By Ben Helgeson
    From: Denver
    May 29, 2008

    Steve Dieckhoff thought this climb was noteworthy enough to include in is outstanding book, Serious Play: An Annotated Guide to Traditional Front Range Classics. There's a quote worth mentioning about this climb: "You could spend hours toproping different variations on this face, eliminating holds until there are none left. The grace, technique and confidence you learn while mastering this type of climbing will serve you well in your climbing career" (p.49).
    By kevinnlong
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 13, 2008
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This whole face is an excellent TR location for beginners and intermediates as well as those aspiring to learn how to build anchors. Access to the top is easy, and there is ample up top to build various anchors.

    Also, free soloing the dihedral to the right is fantastic and straightforward.
    By Chris Zeller
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 9, 2010
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    This is an excellent, beginner, toproping area. Not mutch pro and no bolts but its not meant for leading. Great place to go if you are just starting out toproping. The anchors are super easy to setup and access and you can spend the day here trying different variations. Why pay for the gym when you can be outdoors under a great shade tree?

    If you want to learn to lead, sew up the dihedral crack to the right. It goes at ~5.2 and takes all the gear you can throw at it. Walk off, too.
    By Greg Speer
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jun 25, 2011

    I thought this route was a lot of fun. This and the adjacent Hare Balls and Dan-D-Line all have variations you can try making it a good place to easily get in a bunch of enjoyable pitches in a short period of time especially if you just want a laid back day. Good area to practice things. Would be perfect for someone wanting to transition from the gym to climbing outside.

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