|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||John Tuttle, Norman Boles and George Watson|
|Submitted By:||Daniel S on May 16, 2007|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Surplus Cheaper Hands||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kaleem Khwaja
From: Emeryville, California
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
The Reid guide calls this .10c R, but I don't think it deserves the R now that all 4 1/4" bolts have been replaced (thank you!).
I also think it's a tad softer than Poker Face (10b) and Blackballed (10b), though more runout and dirtier.
The first bolt placement has me scratching my head as it's one move out of reach from a great stance and forces a ~10a move to get to it. If I were bolting this ground up I can't imagine not placing it one foot lower. But hey, makes for a little more spice I guess.
By King Tut
Aug 21, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
@Kaleem: It was put there on the FA after a long winter of no climbing with pent up energy for "spiciness" that in retrospect should have been a little lower. I think the stance was a crumbly flake that has since pulled off making a hard move to reach it...If it had been placed lower then the next stance would have been used for another, but it was felt to be too close to the other to use at the time. The original route goes more or less straight over the last bolt (crux) up and right to the bolted anchor it shares with Age of Industry. SCH was put up before Age of Industry.
Others have gone up the dirty seam to the tree and left slings (variation that makes the route easier). We lost interest in continuing the route above the anchors but others have extended it, dunno about how good the climbing.