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Surgery Buttress

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Surgery Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 6,957'
Location: 39.62375, -107.13401 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,431
Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Dec 7, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Approach trail is loose and exposed at spots, so c...


This is a decent limestone crag that features mostly shorter routes on vertical rock. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).

Getting There 

Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence. From here follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs. Just before rounding the corner is a cave with two steep routes, and once around the corner most of the routes are found.

Approach time: 10-20 minutes.


Per Michael Schneiter: Routes, listed R->L, or as approached:

A. Smooth Operator, 5.10d, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Special Gift for Girls, 5.12a, 1p, 45', bolts.
C. Surgery Buttress, 5.10b, 1p, 80', bolts.
D1. Pre Op, 5.10d, 1p, 80', bolts.
D2. Connective Tissue, 5.10d, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. The Knife, 5.12a, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Post Op, 5.11d, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Rehab, 5.12a, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Smells Like Victory, 5.11c, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Smells Like Pussy, 5.10d, 1p, 50', bolts.
J. Pussy Pie, 5.11a, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. Bitchy Bitch, 5.11c/12a, 1p, 40', bolts.
L. Angel Baby, 5.11b, 1p, 50', bolts.
M. Smirkin' Smith, 5.9+, 1p, 45', bolts.
N. Slippin' Sloan, 5.9, 1p, 80', bolts.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.6 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Surgery Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Surgery Buttress:
Slippin' Sloan   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Wall
Pre Op   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Surgery Buttress

Featured Route For Surgery Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Pre Op climbs the open book dihedral in the middle...

Pre Op 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Colorado : Glenwood Springs : ... : Main Wall
This is the second route you come to around the corner; it takes a vague line right of a right-facing corner. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Surgery Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Surgery Buttress in Glenwood Canyon.
The Surgery Buttress in Glenwood Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: After turning the corner from where the climbs are...
After turning the corner from where the climbs are...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking back to the car, the first 2 routes are jus...
Hiking back to the car, the first 2 routes are jus...

Comments on Surgery Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 29, 2009
The Surgery Buttress is one of my favorite crags in Glenwood Canyon. Easy access and great rock with fun routes. Afternoon sun or morning shade, depending on what you're looking for. Dries out quick.
Routes, listed R->L, or as approached:
Smooth Operator, 5.10d
Special Gift for Girls, 5.12a
Surgery Buttress, 5.10b
Pre Op, 5.10d
Connective Tissue, 5.10d
The Knife, 5.12a
Post Op, 5.11d
Rehab, 5.12a
Smells Like Victory, 5.11c
Smells Like Pussy, 5.10d
Pussy Pie, 5.11a
Bitchy Bitch, 5.11c/12a
Angel Baby, 5.11b
Smirkin' Smith, 5.9+
Slippin' Sloan, 5.9
By coop Best
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 16, 2010
What is the approach time?
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 16, 2010
10-20 minutes. The trail is steep for a bit, but it's not as big of a hike as The Narrows or Skillet.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
May 14, 2012
The exposed, loose, narrow ledge traverse approach to this crag is downright dangerous. Perhaps coming up the draw to the west of the crag and coming in from the left end would be better.
By Jordan Winters
From: Minturn, CO
Mar 30, 2014
This cliff is definitely exfoliating - be careful what you yard on.

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