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Surfing With The Alien 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Glenn Schuler, 1987
Page Views: 1,372
Submitted By: Glenn Schuler on May 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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A youthful Kevin and his mullet contemplates the r...

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Start with a reachy move to gain a ledge, then follow the seam/crack until it peters out and the angle steepens. Crank through the crux zone and work your way onto "The Ramp". A final headwall with positive but pumpy holds guards the anchors. Old school bolt spacing adds some excitement!


Located a couple hundred feet left of the Sunkist Slab, this route climbs up the middle of a pear shaped face. It is the second bolted line to the right of the obvious Intimidator Roof crack. Start at a small pine tree growing off the ledge.


9 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos of Surfing With The Alien Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the end of the crux.
Nearing the end of the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin McLaughlin onsights the second ascent.
Kevin McLaughlin onsights the second ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Satriani!
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost to the ramp.
Almost to the ramp.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux section.
Starting the crux section.

Comments on Surfing With The Alien Add Comment
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By Matt M Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 3, 2016

This is an awesome route, but it felt harder than 12a to me. For example, Frozen in Time, which located at the ice box, felt much easier, yet it is also rated a 5.12a. Maybe I just need to figure out some different beta. I would like to climb this route again before I give a grade. I am curious what others think an accurate grade for this route is.
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Jul 9, 2016

Glad you liked the route, Matt! A lot of my friends/partners have been on it over the years, and all but one or two have agreed with the 12a rating. Bob & Carrie Robertson did it not too long after I put it up and thought it was 11c! Ouch.
As for the Icebox route comparison, I'm sure that is just old school ratings vs. more recent sport routes. Whatever the grade, still one of my fav's.

By Matt M Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 9, 2016

Glenn, thanks for the feedback. I will get back on the route soon (and not at the end of a long hot day) and try and offer a grade. In any case, it's a very fun route with different types of climbing that keep you engaged all the way to the chains.

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