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Surfing on a Rocket 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Todd Hammond, April 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 320
Submitted By: Todd H on Jun 21, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

Reminiscent of Cross-eyed and Painless, but shorter and easier. The first two thirds of the route is bouldery sport climbing past 4 bolts up the initial steep face and arête. After reaching jugs under the roof, the angle eases, and the remainder is gear protected 5.10. At that point, loop left around the blank headwall and climb diagonal cracks and edges up to the chains.

Location 

Starts up a steep sculpted face on the right side of the prominent arête at the highest point of the slab ramp.

Protection 

4 bolts
#00 and/or #0 TCU extended with a draw under the roof
#3 TCU up higher
Chain anchors

This climb, as well as Personal Jesus 10d and Angle of Repose 10a, can all be climbed with a 30 meter rope (knot the ends!).


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