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Locals Only Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Get Lost T,TR 
Intruder Alert TR 
Locals Only T,TR 
No Trespassing T 
North Ridge T 
Pipeline T 
Stealth Mode TR 
Surfin' Safari T 
Tube T,TR 

Surfin' Safari 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott Cole, Errett Allen, Stan VanMarbod (May '83)
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Bryan G on Sep 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Fun finish to Surfin Safari.

Description 

Towards the right end of the formation is a vertical thin crack that heads up about 20 ft to a slabby ledge. Above this, take a left-slanting finger crack heading up towards some bulges. There are a variety of ways to finish, I ended up pulling a 5.8 bulge into a flared chimney. The Lewis guide shows there being bolted anchors near the top of the route, but we couldn't find any and rapped Locals Only instead.

Location 

To the right of No Trespassing, and left of Tough Muffin.

Protection 

Pro to 3".


Photos of Surfin' Safari Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Surfin'
Doug Surfin'
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik Wolfe on Surfin Sarfari
Erik Wolfe on Surfin Sarfari

Comments on Surfin' Safari Add Comment
Show which comments
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 28, 2012

A good pitch with some varied climbing. Don't worry about using all your thin gear for the first half, from the roof to the top it's all wider stuff. No fixed anchor at the top, but there are good options for gear, and then it's an easy scramble over to the "Locals Only" rap anchor.
By Maidy
Sep 19, 2014

We really enjoyed this climb. Long, varied climbing on good rock. We didn't see an anchor either-probably a misprint in the book or it's been chopped. We climbed the left steep dihedral finish (pic ^) which has good features and protection. Probably way more fun than groveling up one of the wide chimneys. Definitely would love to climb it again.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jul 7, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

imho this is the best route on the wall and deserves way more love than it is getting. consistently fun, varied climbing with a bit of length thrown in. the middle section can be done several different ways - rt. seems easier, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. top out via the left side hand crack.

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