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YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Harrison Shull, Kirk Brode - 2004
Page Views: 1,055
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006

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No stars in the book but classic all the way! Superwave is located on a left (west) facing wall a short distance left of the Wood Spirit tree. The wall is steep, beautiful yellow and orange rock with a single prominent roof band at mid-height. Look carefully for a bolt right at the lip of this roof -- that's Superwave. A higher bolt out right belongs to the 5.12 that shares the start.

Climb sketchy rock up to a ledge at a left-facing flake. Optional pro here and a good blue TCU in the little finger crack above protects the first hard mantle. The climbing continues to be steep and continuous up to a sit-down rest on a large, left-pointing flake below the roof. Climb up, into, and out the roof to a great horn, clip the bolt, and throw for a great horizontal. Above this is another finger slot that accepts a purple TCU or blue Alien. Step left on tenuous holds to a right-facing corner, up this halfway before stepping around to the face on the left at a horizontal break (do not continue up the right-facing corner too far!). Follow the face on generally positive holds (save another blue TCU for this section) up to one last thin section before the bolted anchor.


Standard rack. I found a #3 Camalot helpful on the lower face before the rest flake. Lots of long runners are nice too.

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