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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Superstone 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Joyce and Richard Rossiter, 1986
Page Views: 1,294
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Jan 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Amir TRing the beautiful "Superstone".

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  • Description 

    Lots of climbing when combined with the first half of Chockstone. A good hard 11 for the solid 10 climber, since the 11 crux is at a good bolt, and therefore very safe and easy to aid if necessary.

    Do the first half of Chockstone (10a), step right at the tree rap anchor. Clip a bolt in the dihedral above and do the crux moves to enter the dihedral and reach a good jam. You might want to clip the bolt with a single locking biner since there is a chance you can hit the ledge falling off the crux. I was unable to do the crux moves, but came close a few times. So for me it was 10+ A0. Step left out of the corner and up on 9 and easy 10 moves past some OK but not great gear. Wires and a funky blue Camalot in a flare. An offset cam might work great here. When it starts to get hard (10c crux), place some gear in the corner to your right. I escaped right here, as suggested by Rossiter, to a left facing corner, then up and back left. The direct 10c crux looks exciting.

    Belay at the same tree as for the upper part of the Chockstone. There are no fixed rap anchors here as of 1/19/03. To get off, downclimb with a belay about 20 feet right to the Purple Haze anchors.

    Protection 

    Brass nuts (HB offsets or HPs) plus standard rack up to blue #3 Camalot, a large offset cam of blue camalot size would be perfect for up high. Single set of small cams.


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    By david goldstein
    Jul 4, 2003

    Clipping the bolt may be the crux for people under a certain height (low 5'?) Staying left (but not too far left) after the crux offers an intriguing puzzle -- a 4' long flared fist crack w/ very little else.

    Short but sweet.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jul 5, 2003

    Yeah, from about 7-8 years ago, I recall clipping the bolt for a friend of mine, 5'6", with a locking biner. Then he proceeded to work the route, falling upon and pulling some RPs just above until he got it. No offense Bob, it might be a few move wonder, as I recall, but memory blurs as I grow older.
    By Joe Collins
    Sep 22, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Looking at the comments here, I think I did the route 'wrong'. After pulling the crux you get a great jug slightly up and right of the hand jam. The path of least resistance from here is to climb up and right into the left facing dihedral. Probably easy 5.9. It seemed fairly contrived to force the line out left, staying in the right facing dihedral, or even going out farther left to the flare. Definitely a one-move wonder, and pretty easy for the grade.

    Cool climbing throught the crux. Then lower quality climbing up right. It seems very contrived to stay on the line which is described in the guidebook or on the webpage.

    One move wonder. Maybe a bit height dependent.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Dec 8, 2003
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Superstone's first clip is tough even at 5'10". I had a 'perfect' nut below that, however (small Super Rock. A #4 or #5 BD stopper might also be quite good). This placement, however good might not keep you from an ankle twister on the ledge, but it will keep you from [tumbling] past it and breaking your neck. This section is technical and fun and there are a variable number of hard moves depending upon your height.

    After the bolt the climbing is easier but not easy. Escaping right and coming back left is the most obvious way, but the topo (yes, contrived) shows popping out left to be the way. There are surprising and surprisingly good holds there. So it is contrived, but more fun than going up the line of least resistance.

    Let's say you haven't had enough and are disappointed by the one move wonder- OK, so go straight up. I ended up in a balancy and powerful layback off of the left edge of the system in a near-splits with my right toe hooked more than 6 feet out to the right side. One move wonder? Not hardly..double-check those RPs you just set below you and make sure they'll hold!

    With enough slings, small gear, and judgment, one can run P1 of Chockstone into Superstone into P3 OF chockstone, finishing on Chock Suey, for a single 60+ meter pitch (70m rope recommended but not certainly necessary). This goes 10a, 11b, 9+, 10c for a nice combo-pitch. We ran the last 3 together before realizing that 4 was possible.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 16, 2005

    There is a trick to clipping the bolt that makes it pretty easy. Just climb a little way up the 2nd pitch of Chockstone and from a good jug reach around the corner to the bolt. Great way to add a little extra climbing to Chockstone even if it is a bit contrived.
    By Scott Bennett
    Mar 3, 2009

    I really enjoy this climb and just wanted to add a little beta. The description recommends a #3 Camalot, but a #1 Camalot works just as well a few inches higher. Above that, you can place many good small nuts and RPs.
    I guess escaping out right after the first crux is easier, but why would you want to? The dihedral above is beautiful and culminates in a hard move, felt closer to 11c to me. There is currently a fixed stopper protecting this move.
    -Scott
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 7, 2010

    The Levin guide says to step out left after the crux and up the flared "fist crack". Then back right, but how far right? The climb is confusing in that you can climb left, straight up, or right. Straight up is definitely not cheating (and that's why I haven't done it that way), but left or right feels like cheating.

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