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Redgarden - Tower One
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YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: L. Kor, Rick Horn 1961. FFA: Pat Ament, Richard Smith, Tom R
Page Views: 2,878
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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David following the first pitch of Superspar. Exce...

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  • Description 

    This is a combination of the first two pitches of Super Slab, and the second two of Art's Spar. The first pitch is a .10c undercling flake with decent holds, yet still pumpy climbing. Above the pitch traverses left along a line of pins over nebulous terrain. The second and third pitches can be combined with a two hundred foot rope to a belay at the base of a famous offwidth called Grand Giraffe. The last pitch is the crux, it is rated .10c in most guidebooks, but it is possibly a full grade harder now. A local climber informed me a hold has broken in the crack that now makes the move much harder than .10c. The line is obvious, jam out a completely horizontal 6' roof. This is a very intimidating and exposed crux. The hardest part is making a long move to the lip will completely horizontal. This section really surprised me (it spit me off), make no mistake it is solid 5.11, I thought it was a full grade harder than Tagger (.10c) which is a similar climb. There is an easier option to the left called Electric Aunt Jemima that goes at .10c, although the pro looks a little friable (#0 TCUs?). The roof on Super Spar is well protected at least.


    Bring a standard rack. A bunch of pins protect the first pitch.

    Comments on Superspar Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    Young Doug - I agree 100%. The roof is more difficult than Vertigo's which is maybe 10d. Even scarier is the o.w. Grand Giraffe!
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jan 1, 2001

    The route starts from the same ledge as Ruper, off of the lower ramp. Walk about 20 or so ft. NW from Ruper to where the ledge is about to die out. The first pitch crux is the first 30 or so ft., identified by a shallow corner with several old pins to its right. The first pitch pin traverse, which goes left another 30 ft. up, takes you a large left-facing corner. That is the second pitch; the third angles up and right--aim for a belay just right of the start of the obvious Grand Giraffe OW, at the left end of a long, arching roof band. The crux climbs up a flake up and right of the belay then takes the body-length hand/finger crack through the roof. Very exciting.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 9, 2001

    Wow. .11b? Just your basic handcrack- out-a-roof/bomber-jug-over-the-lip type of thing. Pumpy, but still think its a .10c... but again, I am tall. All the 'short' people seem to have a right to rate things harder to compensate...
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jul 28, 2001

    Not a basic "hand-crack-out-the-roof-thingy." The crack is not a great size and the roof is big, ~6 feet. Any of the other roof or overhang .10c routes I've done in Eldo (e.g. Tagger, Grandmother's Challenge, etc.) felt much, much easier. The Edge is hard, proabably a little easier, though totally different. Maybe you did Superspar before the rockfall changed it??
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Mar 21, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    For me, the Art's Spar roof is about 10c. Solid, straightforward jams, obvious moves, gear overhead. The crux for me was pulling over the lip - too many options, and I initially made the wrong choice. Over the last 2 years I have consistently failed to onsight anything over 10b in Eldo - I've tainted all of the good 10cs - yet I onsighted this. It's way easier for me than Grand Giraffe (supposedly 10a). The following day I followed the Le Toit roof (10b/c) and had much more trouble following that than leading the Art's Spar roof.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Mar 21, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Resting from the lip with a right heel hook reminded me of the story back in the Gunks when Henry Barber did the first free ascent with John Stannard in 1973 of Crack of Bizarre Delights (11b) at Skytop (now closed to climbing). The crux is a short overhanging dihedral above a ceiling leading to a roof. The crux move is reaching the lip. You pull over the lip and roll onto the top of the cliff at a large flat lookout area. Henry got the lip, hooked his heel in a notch formed by a crack, and let go with both hands. He let out his famous laugh and said, "I think I'll hook me foot and rest me arms." Henry had recently returned from England and had adopted a heavy British accent. Since then, whenever I have a heel hook on a roof Henry's words run through my head.

    I know some of you ex-Gunks climbers now living in the Boulder area are misty-eyed now, thinking back to those great days in the Gunks.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Mar 22, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Many people say a block fell out, so that must be true. Maybe harder now, but what does that tell you? Easier before, harder now. For me and some others 10c now, for others apparently 11a/b. Somewhat easier before. Maybe the block was more helpful for shorter climbers?
    By Chris Beh
    Sep 18, 2007
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Super Spar Direct, a one pitch approach to the roof. Instead making the traverse left to the 1st belay on Super Slab climb straight up a shallow corner, a little 9+, and then lichenous but solid, easy moves up to the big alcove on Grand Giraffe. Follow that pitch all the way to the belay below the offwidth. 60M rope leaves about 10 feet of spare rope. Save a blue Camalot for the belay.
    By slevin
    Sep 18, 2007

    Chris- the 5.9+ corner is the top of the Poached Eggs pitch.
    By Nate Weitzel
    Jun 21, 2017

    Completed Super Spar 6/20. Wow - what a great route. You get the benefit of the first part of Super Slab with a fun exciting roof finish. I had never done the Arts Spar roof before, and found it to be great. For what it's worth, I agree with most of the comments below except that for me this was definitely easier than the Vertigo roof but still a challenge. Probably in the 10d-11a range. Solid gear placements and serious thank God jugs over the lip make this go at a reasonable grade. Great exposure.

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