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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Gabe Ostriker, Derek Lawrence
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,309
Submitted By: Derek Lawrence on Dec 21, 2009

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So named for the pump you'll feel at the top....

Start at a layback crack for 2 bolts. Trend right at the 3rd bolt, then go up and back left past 2 more bolts to a rest stance below the corner. Sustained, pumpy climbing through tricky laybacks and underclings takes you to the anchors at the nice ledge. It gets a little sharp at the top. Lower or rap 80 feet.

Be wary of loose rock at the top and the midway rest. As with Solitary Confinement, packs, dogs, kids, etc. should be kept out of the alcove at the bottom of the route....


Start 15 feet left of Solitary Confinement (~30 feet left of Minimum Security).


10 bolts plus anchors.

The anchors are shared with Solitary Confinement (3 bolts, 2 new with chains, 1 old).

Photos of Supermax Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: After the crux.
After the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the fun part!
The start of the fun part!
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading into the crux.
Heading into the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Supermax follows the red line.  (Solitary Confinem...
BETA PHOTO: Supermax follows the red line. (Solitary Confinem...

Comments on Supermax Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 21, 2015
By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
Dec 21, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Very enjoyable route. No show-stopper moves, just sustained. Would love to see more ascents, so as to get a good consensus grade. Please get on it and let us know what you think!
By JasonT
Dec 21, 2009

Nice job with the name, guys. I was there yesterday while you guys were developing, and this looks like a super sweet route. Can't wait to jump on it next time!! Thanks!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 22, 2009

Super killer! good eye, Derek.

Lookin' forward to checkin' it out after the holidays and redeeming myself on Solitary.
By Fred Bonnard
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Very nice route, interesting move at the 3rd bolt but had trouble getting confortable in the laydback moves at the mini roof and ran out of gas to pull the last wall, agree with the 11d rating.
By Ryan Sanders
From: C Springs
Jan 22, 2012

This is a very powerful route for Shelf, I loved it. There is definitely some loose blocks about 40ft up, but it is still 4 stars in my book. No idea on the grade, Gabe, felt more powerful than Lats, but Lats may have a harder move.
By richard magill
Jan 23, 2012

GOOD line! I would have given it 4 stars were it not for the chossband about 4 bolts up: I pulled a big piece (like 7-8 lbs) of chert out. The good news is that it is now cleaner and more solid.

Anyway, once you get up into the powerful laybacking and sidepulling, it is really excellent, very pumpy and fun. I also thought the bolting was perfect - a little spaced out but always a clip where you really need it. Got on this without knowing what it was and when I came down I said "probably 11+, possibly 12a", so I think your grading is right on.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Mar 13, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great route, nice & pumpy & not too thin or sharp like many Shelf routes. The chert band midway seems to be cleaning up pretty well, although some care may still be warranted there.
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 3, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A fantastic addition to Shelf (and cleaning up quite nicely)! Observe how far the rope hangs out from the wall after being lowered and you will realize why it feels so pumpy.
By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Supermax is Super Badass! Shelf road classic for the layback climbers! Powerful and yes, "Super sweet".
By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Soon to be a classic, one of the best 11d's at Shelf Road.
By Julia
May 21, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Wow! This is the best 11 I have been on at Shelf. Needs more people on it so it's cleaner, but it is still amazing. Sweet climbing along all different kinds of holds, always a great foot. Very unique style for Shelf, a must do!

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