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Superman Flake 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 360'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Oct 2010
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2014

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Description 

Nice climb on mostly clean rock. Aesthetics are marred by the insecure steps into the trees for a couple of the belays. The route is notable for tackling significant overlaps in the steepest part of the face.

Location 

The route starts at a flake that - if you use your imagination - looks like the Superman emblem (see photo). The original goal was to get to the striking tall spruce tree above the huge arch. The tree is the belay atop P2, and there's another smaller tree a few moves higher if you don't want to make the unprotected walk across the dirt-covered ledge to get to the tree. Two options exist for finishing the route: 5.4 R or 5.10a/b. Rap the route with two 60m ropes.

Protection 

Standard rack, include lots of small cams. The fixed pin on P2 has a habit of falling out (the crack is wet and opens/closes seasonally. A Ball Nut might possibly fit if the pin is gone.


Photos of Superman Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle finishes the first pitch of Superman Flake.
Kyle finishes the first pitch of Superman Flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Superman Flake
BETA PHOTO: Start of Superman Flake

Comments on Superman Flake Add Comment
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By beensandbagged
From: R.I.
Sep 30, 2014

The piton is currently AWOl (Sept 2014) at least I could not find it,a ball nut seems to work well.
By Gunkiemike
Sep 30, 2014

Yea, it's not there; what's left of it is hanging in my garage. I think a SMC-type baby angle might work better in there. Until then, Ball-Nut it is. It protects a sketchy move but it's just a few feet off a flat spot, and you get the next gear as soon as you commit to the step up IIRC.
By Gunkiemike
Aug 18, 2015

The pin at the start of the overlap moves of P2 has been replaced. But bring a red (or the next larger size) BallNut if you have one, just in case this new pin doesn't like that perpetually wet crack any more than the old one did.

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