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Superior Arete T,TR 
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Superior Arete 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA: Dave Groth FFA: Rob Pilaczynski, August 28, 2011.
Page Views: 4,958
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006

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Superior Arete Sequence 1 Photos by Jason Hedlund

Description 

Stuck in the spotlight, it is hard to miss the line. Start up Superior Crack for 15 feet or so until you can traverse right onto the arete via edges. The route weaves its way up the arete switching sides now and then, with the crux at a small roof 1/3 or so the way up. Excellent stone and movement.

Protection 

Quote from Rob Pilaczynski (FFA):
"The two cruxes have bomber gear right below them. I placed a total of five pieces, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any more than that. The first piece is right when you step right out of Superior crack, a .75 BD in a vertical crack. Right below the first roof I placed a bomber yellow alien in the constricting crack. After pulling the roof, you move left then back right to the arete and can fit a really good .5 BD in a small vertical seam. Once on the giant rest ledge, look around the corner to place a blue alien in a horizontal crack, then run it out to the last roof and place a horizontal green C3 before committing to the final headwall."


Photos of Superior Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 5
5
Rock Climbing Photo: 4
4
Rock Climbing Photo: Sailing Superior Arete high above evening waters o...
Sailing Superior Arete high above evening waters o...
Rock Climbing Photo: 3
3
Rock Climbing Photo: 2
2
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel Therneau working Superior Arete. Summer, 2005...
Joel Therneau working Superior Arete. Summer, 2005...
Rock Climbing Photo: Superior Arete. Crux moves. Photo: Ellen Brodrick.
Superior Arete. Crux moves. Photo: Ellen Brodrick.
Rock Climbing Photo: Superior Arete. Crux moves. Photo: Ellen Brodrick.
Superior Arete. Crux moves. Photo: Ellen Brodrick.
Rock Climbing Photo: Superior Arete. Good rest ledge after the 12 secti...
Superior Arete. Good rest ledge after the 12 secti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last couple moves before the top
Last couple moves before the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Superior Arete
BETA PHOTO: Superior Arete

Comments on Superior Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Apr 24, 2008

It is a wild and complicated line also really fun. I just did the first TR about 5 years ago.
By James Loveridge
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 25, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I also wanted to add my name to the list of contacts for beta/info. Dave and I are the main activists here recently (along with Jeremy Schlick and Seth Dyer but they have moved to less topographically challenged locales). Please feel free to e-mail us through the "Contact" link on the personal page of this website.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R

Yes, I heard it was led last weekend by a local climber, Rob P.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 1, 2011

that's a super ballsy lead. i'd like to hear some details. was it a headpoint? what gear did he use? got any photos?
By Rob P.
From: Twin Cities
Sep 6, 2011

I did indeed lead this, twice now infact. I of course did it headpoint style.

The gear is all there, and reasonably spaced. The two cruxes have really good gear right below them. I placed a total of five pieces, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any more than that. The first piece is right when you step right out of Superior crack, a .75 BD in a vertical crack. Right below the first roof I placed a bomber yellow alien in the constricting crack. After pulling the roof, you move left then back right to the arete and can fit a good .5 BD in a small vertical seam. Once on the giant rest ledge, look around the corner to place a blue alien in a horizontal crack, then run it out to the last roof and place a horizontal green C3 before committing to the final headwall.

This climb ranks right up there with OZ and Poseidon as the best climbs at Palisade in my opinion. Awesome movement on amazingly solid rock with a perfect position.

I had two people take photos yesterday when I led it the second time, so hopefully we can get those posted soon.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R

Congrats on the FFA, Rob!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 4, 2011

Right on Rob! What a commiting line in such a stellar spot. Congrats on the FFA. That's a good one.