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Superfly 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Skip Guerin, 1983
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 10,264
Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Nov 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Brad Gobright entering the final corner.

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  • Description 

    Not really a one move wonder, buuuttttt. It has a burly set up with one fat reach at mid-height, then stays hard 11 all the way to the top. This a great route for the climber that's got that, "Been there, done that, 12d, kinda attitude". Definitely unique.

    If that's not good enough for ya, Chad Greedy has added a VERY sweet direct start to Superfly, tentatively called "Supah Dupah Fly", that kicks the whole thing to 13b or so....

    Location 

    The more reasonable looking line just right of Iron Monkey. Begin up and right on top of some blocks (purple tiny TCU) and traverse in left on to powerful and overhanging terrain (great orange/yellow Aliens). Make an improbable reach for good crystal and move up and left into an obvious and steep layback system (freaky #3 Camalot) that gets you to the anchors.

    Protection 

    This was an early Eldo horrow show done classic Skip style, with Christian Griffith and Chip Ruckgaber for partners. Today's modern cams-Aliens/TCUs have made this a much more reasonably protected outing. It can still, just, keep its R rating though, I think.


    Photos of Superfly Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Gobright making the big "toss".
    Brad Gobright making the big "toss".
    Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Mills on his Flash of Superfly.
    Joe Mills on his Flash of Superfly.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rob on Superfly.
    Rob on Superfly.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Skip leading Superfly, photo: Bob Horan Collection...
    Skip leading Superfly, photo: Bob Horan Collection...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ted Lanzano at the crux of Superfly. Photo by Cody...
    Ted Lanzano at the crux of Superfly. Photo by Cody...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Gettin' super!
    Gettin' super!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh sticking "the move" on Superfly.
    Josh sticking "the move" on Superfly.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Mills about to enter the business.
    Joe Mills about to enter the business.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Mills on his Flash of Superfly! Yeah!
    Joe Mills on his Flash of Superfly! Yeah!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Gobright getting his RP two days later!
    Brad Gobright getting his RP two days later!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rob cruxing on Superfly.
    Rob cruxing on Superfly.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh, still in the business, on Superfly.
    Josh, still in the business, on Superfly.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steve plugs in his gear before the crux section.  ...
    Steve plugs in his gear before the crux section. ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steve about to enter the "business" on S...
    Steve about to enter the "business" on S...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Superfly.
    Superfly.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Gobright commits to the burly crux.
    Brad Gobright commits to the burly crux.

    Comments on Superfly Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Taylor Roy
    From: Midvale, UT
    Nov 24, 2009
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    As a wimpy, bolt clipping, sport wanker, I found the gear on Superfly to be thin but very good and the pro was never more than 5 feet apart. The danger rating on this climb is very inflated. In my opinion, this route doesn't even deserve a PG 13 rating. So don't let the R rating keep you from trying this route. It's excellent, and very safe.
    By Josh Janes
    General Admin
    Jan 1, 2010

    Pro is definitely more than 5 feet apart but generally pretty good where you need it. I think injury could only be the result of a freak accident on this route for a competent leader. Also, we would start left of the line and traverse in right - following obvious, chalked holds and good climbing before the biz - the way Skip is doing it in the photo.
    By Hank Caylor
    Administrator
    From: Glenwood Springs, CO
    Jan 3, 2010

    Shut up Josh, I nixed the R rating. If the SHALLOW #3 Camalot blows, tell me where to send the flowers.
    By Scott Bennett
    Jan 13, 2010
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Yeah, that #3 looks shady, fortunately there's a pretty good looking green Camalot a few inches below.
    Agreed that it shouldn't get an R, but you'd better nail every placement or else things could get dangerous in a hurry.
    -Scott
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Jan 13, 2010

    Boy oh boy....
    By Joseph Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Mar 18, 2010

    By Ol Toby
    From: CA
    Jul 20, 2013
    rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

    Excellent route with a unique and bouldery crux move. An old #3.5 Camalot protects the flared placement more securely than a #3.

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