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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Marty Lewis, Kevin Calder, 5/97
Page Views: 5,927
Submitted By: Jonathan Howland on Nov 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
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Karsten channels his superfly while lowering off p...


Two v. fine pitches -- the first up to an exciting roof (which is more traversed than surmounted: right off a big horn, then back left on big holds), the second with a steep flake/corner of liebacking and jamming.
Comfortable ledge between pitches.
One seasoned Gorger I know calls this the best 5.10 in the ORG.


9 bolts on each pitch. Two single rope (60 m.) rappels to descend.

Photos of Superfly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pops pullin the Roof!
 Steep and classic for the g...
Pops pullin the Roof! Steep and classic for the g...
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof.
The roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Robinson Reaching through the crux.
Richard Robinson Reaching through the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Goldstein pulling through the P1 crux
Dave Goldstein pulling through the P1 crux

Comments on Superfly Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Nov 28, 2006

I might call it the best 5.10 sport climb in the country.
By Tavis Ricksecker
Jul 4, 2007

Really really fun! The first pitch was surprisingly easy. The second was surprisingly hard and sustained. I remember thinking that I would certainly grease off at any moment, but somehow kept moving upwards anyway.
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Nov 21, 2007

Actually if you reach up from the ginormous hold under the roof you can reach a HUGE super bomber pocket and kick your feet out. This bi-passes the traverse. A very fun move!
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 17, 2008

9/10 climb - loses a point only b/c there's still a bit of bat shit to be negotiated on p2. But that won't kill ya.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Loses a point for bat shit?! Hmmm... that's very rugged of you.
By JamesLucas Lucas
Feb 2, 2012

If you know how to bandaloop, you can swing over to a bolt on Wooly Bogger, climb up a bit and set up a toprope on it. Superfly is Sooper rad.
By RossV
From: Lyon, FR
Feb 6, 2012

A must do if you're in the Gorge. Don't even think about only doing the 1st pitch, the 2nd is also great!
By Jackie Trejo
Oct 1, 2012

There is bat shit EVERYWHERE on this climb... Rather nasty but still super rad climb!
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Jan 18, 2013

This route can be done in one long enduro pitch if you have enough draws. Don't miss the cliffhanger maneuver on P1.
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 2, 2013

The horn on the first pitch flexed noticeably this last weekend which I don't remember from several years back. Additionally I would say the rock on the 2nd pitch has some questionable looking blocks. I pulled on them with no incidence but just be aware.

Guide says you can link into one long pitch which is true but with quite a bit of rope drag even with using long slings. I was barely able to lower back to first pitch anchor after linking with a 60m and so doubt you could toprope as one long pitch with 70m either. Best to climb as 2 separate pitches. As stated above the ledge is nice and can accomadate 3 people easily.

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