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Chris Stewart navigates the entree moves on Supere...
This awesome pitch follows the obvious hanging crack system, located 20' climbers' left of Lunch Box Special
. Begin with a short face section (25'), and use an incipient crack (1"-3" gear) and single bolt for protection (5.10+). Gain small ledge below LBS
crack, and climb this crack through small, left-facing roof/corner for 25' (5.10-). Traverse left at the second protection bolt and enter the Superette crack (5.10-). Follow this radness for 60', and look for locker fingers (3/4"-1" gear, 5.11-) with an easing hand section above (2"-3" gear, 5.9/.10-).
The upper finger crack protects mainly with 1" Friends, red Aliens or 0.5 Camalots. Despite this bigger finger size, the crack is locker fingers because of how it's offset or tilted and a few good rests make it easier 5.11. This is a MUST DO!
This route and several others are located directly above the access trail. It is located 25 feet left of the beginning of Lunch Box Special
, Groove Tube
, and A Walking Enigma
. Look for short hand crack (1-3") below a single bolt. This variation ends up joining LBS
for 25' but is well in line with the upper crack system. The line is clean and direct with no rope drag, as long as you protect it wisely.
2 - 1/2"
2 - 3/4"
3 - 1"
1 - 1.5"
1 - 2"
3 - 3"
2 - 3.5"
Bring several quickdraws and long one or two. There is a two bolt anchor.
See picture of first ascent rack, and bring supplements if you like to sow things up.
The rack for Superette minus QDs.
BETA PHOTO: Retro Groove Wall hosting- Superette, Lunch Box Sp...
BETA PHOTO: Retro Groove Overlay.
BETA PHOTO: I. Altman drops into a layback to gain the Superet...
BETA PHOTO: I. Altman enters the changing cracks sequence on S...
BETA PHOTO: The rack for Superette minus QDs.
Renee Nall finds locker fingers on Superette's upp...
Renee Nall climbs through the beginning face move...