Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Dolores Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walking Enigma  T 
Air Time S 
Arm and Hammer  S 
Bat Master  S 
Bearded Lunch Lady T 
Caroline's Crack T 
Caroline's Offwidth T 
Cinco de Mayo en Domingo T 
Crescent Crack  T 
Dazed and Confused  T 
Deliverance  T 
Duncan's Delight T 
Ear, The T 
Easy-Wider T 
Groove Tube, The T 
High Time T 
Jive Turkey T 
Joint Effort T 
Lunch Box Special  T 
Make John Do It T 
McComb Crack T 
Menstruation Station T 
Pump House Crack 
Pump House Direct  T 
Rattlesnake Crack T 
Redemption Arete T 
Rizla's Crack T 
Rope Master's Crack T 
Seemter, The T 
Spooky Tooth  T 
Sunday Stroll T 
Superette  T 
Swim Simulator  T 
Texas Corner T 
Unknown T 
Unknown Crack aka People are Watching T 
Whiskey River T 
Wind Tower, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Superette  

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: I. Altman and R. Nall, 10/9/15
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: ian altman on Oct 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chris Stewart navigates the entree moves on Supere...

Description 

This awesome pitch follows the obvious hanging crack system, located 20' climbers' left of Lunch Box Special. Begin with a short face section (25'), and use an incipient crack (1"-3" gear) and single bolt for protection (5.10+). Gain small ledge below LBS crack, and climb this crack through small, left-facing roof/corner for 25' (5.10-). Traverse left at the second protection bolt and enter the Superette crack (5.10-). Follow this radness for 60', and look for locker fingers (3/4"-1" gear, 5.11-) with an easing hand section above (2"-3" gear, 5.9/.10-).

The upper finger crack protects mainly with 1" Friends, red Aliens or 0.5 Camalots. Despite this bigger finger size, the crack is locker fingers because of how it's offset or tilted and a few good rests make it easier 5.11. This is a MUST DO!

Location 

This route and several others are located directly above the access trail. It is located 25 feet left of the beginning of Lunch Box Special, Groove Tube, and A Walking Enigma . Look for short hand crack (1-3") below a single bolt. This variation ends up joining LBS for 25' but is well in line with the upper crack system. The line is clean and direct with no rope drag, as long as you protect it wisely.

Protection 

2 - 1/2"
2 - 3/4"
3 - 1"
1 - 1.5"
1 - 2"
3 - 3"
2 - 3.5"
2 bolts.
Bring several quickdraws and long one or two. There is a two bolt anchor.

See picture of first ascent rack, and bring supplements if you like to sow things up.

Rock Climbing Photo: The rack for Superette minus QDs.
The rack for Superette minus QDs.


Photos of Superette Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Retro Groove Wall hosting- Superette, Lunch Box Sp...
BETA PHOTO: Retro Groove Wall hosting- Superette, Lunch Box Sp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Retro Groove Overlay.
BETA PHOTO: Retro Groove Overlay.
Rock Climbing Photo: I. Altman drops into a layback to gain the Superet...
BETA PHOTO: I. Altman drops into a layback to gain the Superet...
Rock Climbing Photo: I. Altman enters the changing cracks sequence on S...
BETA PHOTO: I. Altman enters the changing cracks sequence on S...
Rock Climbing Photo: The rack for Superette minus QDs.
BETA PHOTO: The rack for Superette minus QDs.
Rock Climbing Photo: Superette in profile.
Superette in profile.
Rock Climbing Photo: Renee Nall finds locker fingers on Superette's upp...
Renee Nall finds locker fingers on Superette's upp...
Rock Climbing Photo:  Renee Nall climbs through the beginning face move...
Renee Nall climbs through the beginning face move...

Comments on Superette Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -