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Super Trad 

M6+ R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original: M6+ R [details]
FA: Sam Macke, Nate Brown 2/12/15
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter?
Page Views: 303
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Feb 12, 2015

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Topo Big Slab

Description 

Hardest of the three big slab routes. Lots of vertical committing climbing.
Pitch 1: 30 meters. First 60' easy, followed by an awkward hard M6 section to a stance then another 20' of hard dihedral to a two bolt belay.

Pitch 2: 30 meters. Hard committing climbing marks the first and last fifteen feet of this pitch. Traverse 12' up and right off belay. Middle section of pitch was runout M5 with poor pro. Hatchety pins worked well on this pitch. Finish at a good stance and two bolts.

Pitch 3: 45 meters,M6 climbing straight above belay. Good fun hooking above crux to a good ledge, no bolts.

Pitch 4: 20 meters of excellent hooking with good foot holds. Finish at anchor 4 of "The Red Route" well to the right after achieving the big ledge.

Location 

Starts on the ridge line that separates the slab from the steep "Gray Wall"

Protection 

Doubles to red BD. 2,3,4 BD, medium amount of pins, specter was nice. Belays atop pitches one and two equipped with 3.5"x3/8" plated steel bolts and hangers. No lead bolts placed on FA.


Photos of Super Trad Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of pitch two. Committing.
Start of pitch two. Committing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Excellent hooking and pro on pitch four.
Excellent hooking and pro on pitch four.
Rock Climbing Photo: Macke in the M6 on pitch one
Macke in the M6 on pitch one

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