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Super Suka 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Richard Aschert & Dave Dangle, 1991
Page Views: 2,604
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (2). Errata: Route 31 is Tits...


About 25 feet to the left of Tits Up and Hot Beach, there is a menacing OW/chimney in a dihedral. The second route to the right of the dihedral is Super Suka.

Super Suka looks like a slab, but is a bit steeper than it appears from the ground. The crux section actually is pretty slabby, and consists of a very thin crux at about the midway point. A monster no-hands rest comes before the finish. Definitely take advantage of the rest, since the finish is steep, pumpy, and hard to read.

A good route, but certainly not as classic as its neighboring routes.


10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos of Super Suka Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This route does not super suck.   Climber: Ben I. ...
This route does not super suck. Climber: Ben I. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben making a long reach low on Super Sucka.  Photo...
Ben making a long reach low on Super Sucka. Photo...

Comments on Super Suka Add Comment
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By jhump
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Crazy story for me to share from last weekend...My partner Brandi started up the route after I tried it. I had started in the corner to the left of the first bolt. It was a little sketchy, so I suggested that she try the easy looking ramp to the right. She got her feet up about 10 feet to the ledge that you clip from. As she fully stood up, she pulled on a small but solid looking crimp and it exploded! She clawed at the wall searching for purchase for what seemed like an eternity. I screamed NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, thinking I was about to witness a broken ankle. She launched backwards off the wall falling back first...and....I caught her. She was all set for some serious pain and I plucked her right out of the sky. We looked at each other and laughed. She had some nasty flappers, but other than that, just fine. She's tough. She pried off another loose, off-route hold higher on the route. Watch out for the choss on this one. Nevermind, she got it all.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Thank her for cleaning up the loose stuff. Its a pretty clean route now.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 26, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

It could have been that my beta was a bit off...but I felt that this was harder to send than Hot Beach. I thought the technical crux was demanding and the boulder crux at the top clocked in around V3/4. I thought around soft 12b or solid 12a. If everyone's consensus is 12b for Hot Beach, then I think 12b.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 16, 2015

Great route and agreed with the original classic status from some of the earlier guidebooks. My only knock would be that the bolting was a bit contrived. I think the original line was intended to go straight up the bolts, but the obvious least path of resistance is to the right of the bolts. A hard sequence in the middle and a not so easy to read finish keep the route interesting. The stone is beautiful. A good one for sure....
By Aaron Furman
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

I honestly think this route is not giving the rights it deserves, I think this to be a classic route, it has a little bit of everything. Loved this route! The crux is definitely thin, I mean real, real thin - as thin as you should be if you wish to cruise this route.

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