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Unsorted Routes:

Super Squeeze 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rearick, Lee Herrell, '63. FFA: Pat Ament 1969.
Page Views: 3,271
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 16, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on The Dome: 1. Prelude to King Kong Le...

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  • Description 

    If there was ever a time where the name says it all...this is a funky route that may appear to be similar to Tagger in Eldo, but differs quite a bit.

    Start with Prelude to King Kong and belay under the roof at a fixed anchor. The bolts/slings are old so you'll need some extra gear to back them up. I'm sure there are many possibilities on how to climb/protect the route, but essentially follow the double cracks out to the thin squeeze.

    This is another route to go on Steve Levin's "Bird Tour" (see Grandmother's Challenge) extended to Boulder Canyon. Nesting pigeons have crapped all over the place, including a fist slot that provides a nice jam. Suck it up and stick that hand into the mess.

    The slot out the roof is only possible to fit through if you're fairly thin (i.e.: I had quite a time at 5'10", 150lb.). So for larger folks, you may have to turn the roof farther outside, then (somehow) squeeze back into the chimney.

    After shifting breakfast back to your throat, finish out the chimney then belay a little right of the chimney on a small ledge. This will allow you to hear your second grunt, cuss, and thrash his/her way up to you.


    Cams from 0.5 Friend to #3 and a few draws for 'em. Long pants are recommended for whole-body jamming in the squeeze.

    Photos of Super Squeeze Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ben discovering the route's namesake.
    Ben discovering the route's namesake.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb tries to squeeze his fat a$$ through the...
    Tony Bubb tries to squeeze his fat a$$ through the...
    Rock Climbing Photo: La Sportiva man starts the roof.
    La Sportiva man starts the roof.

    Comments on Super Squeeze Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 22, 2013
    By david goldstein
    Jun 21, 2003

    The old Erickson guide book contained numerous bon mots and pearlsof wisdom. He hit the nail on the head when he wrote of Supersqueeze (I quote from memory): "a 10 foot stretch of climbing which requires every textbook technique".
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 30, 2003
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    The climb is pretty unique and interesting, but the difficulty is definitely body-size dependent. I'm a relatively small person, but after climbing this, I have raked areas on my back and chest at the shoulder blades/pecs, and then a big raked area at the top of my big butt. I am 5'10 and only weigh 165. Larger climbers beware. To get my chest through I had to exhale and wiggle, to get my butt through I had to dangle my legs and relax, then swing my feet back and forth like a pendulum to wiggle through.

    For gear, you should rack it all to the sides, not a single biner behind you on the gear loops. Take stoppers + thin-hands sized gear (1.5-2" cams) and one good-hands or wide-hands piece and you can protect it very well.

    Presently, one pigeon has made this home. I literally scooped a few piles of dry poop out of the left hand holds prior to the crux.

    One star, normally, but maybe one less than that to account for the pigeon poop. Even the belay is tar-and-feathered with pigeon crap and feathers presently.

    5.10d, but more for the will required than the skill required. Large people will find it harder, exceptionally small people will find it easier, both due to the hand jams available (tight green to purple Camalot) and the lesser struggle squeezing through the slot.
    By BWpete
    Jul 31, 2005

    The old 1/4 inch bolt was being backed up by a nut and a huge somewhat loose chockstone, and about 15 different slings, so I cut most of the crappy webbing off and unslung the chock stone and [equalized] a [BD] 13 nut and the 1/4 incher with a [piece] of 8 mm cord that is [in ok] condition it is [fairly] bomber now. I was surprised that anyone let it get in such bad condition, it was one of the biggest messes that I have seen, so if you get up there and [don't] like what I did, take out the old stuff before you add in your bit, 1 [cordalette] should be [sufficient], and if you [don't] get too sketched out [just] use the bolt, it is solid.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Oct 13, 2005

    Ron Olsen and I replaced the 1/4" bolt at the belay. Unfortunately, not only was the existing bolt a mere 1" deep in the rock, it was also in a hollow flake. We searched high and low for a spot to place the new bolt that was good rock and finally decided up and left. The new bolt is a 3/8" SS Rawl five-piece bolt.

    The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association ( They appreciate your support.
    By YDPL8S
    From: Santa Monica, Ca.
    Sep 24, 2008

    Made me feel like a piece of protection.
    By Mike Robinson
    From: Worcester, MA
    Jun 18, 2009
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Did this last night and it is still owned by the Pigeon King.
    I felt that this route was definatly harder then any other 10 I have climbed anywhere. This come mostly due to the Bird crap that greeses every hold through the crux. This climb was the closest my head will ever get to being in the rectum of a bird. Great movement but route gets 3 demerit points for it's condition
    By David A
    From: Amsterdam, Netherlands
    Mar 9, 2011

    I followed this route today. I fell during the business, and got my helmet stuck so that I was hanging with all my weight on my neck on the helmet strap. Scared shitless, I ripped my helmet off without unbuckling it, and in the process, ripped TWO of my dreads off. I had never been so horrified while following a route.
    By Allen Hill
    From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
    Mar 10, 2011

    God I hope the last post was a joke.
    By Bryan Ferguson
    Apr 27, 2011

    Hey Kurt, psyched you did it! After swearing off slabs in '92, this was on my short list of steep climbs to do. It was part of a process of redemption after years in the SP doing slabs. What a great route! Beta: Swami belt with the knot placed on the left hip, tie in on the right.
    By Kurt Ross
    From: Boulder, colorado
    Apr 28, 2011

    It was not a joke. I saw the bald spot!
    Your beta is brilliant. I've been tying into my swami belt with the knot on the right hip and tying in on the left hip, and I never even thought to switch them.
    By Max Joseph
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 2, 2012

    I had a time on this one too at 5ft 9in, 170 lbs. I first got my head through the slot, and then almost got my head/helmet stuck (see above post - don't wear a helmet). With difficulty, I managed to get my chest about halfway up the slot, and then desperately attempted to exhale all the way and press my way through, breaking a rib in the process. Once my chest was through, it was a breeze. Although I enjoy wide cracks, I can't say that I feel any desire to repeat this climb unless I get tapeworms and drop 20 lbs.
    By Cedar Wright
    May 7, 2013

    Excellent pigeon shit jams at the crux. Way more fun than it looks.
    By Evan Deis
    Aug 22, 2013

    No love for this thing, huh? I thought it was a blast. Don't wear a helmet. Trail gear. Get stuck. Get unstuck. Try again. Get stuck again. Go around. Get back in. Pretty awesome #6 placement. The poop and risk of decapitation are worth the misery (if you're into that).

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