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Super Slide 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gene Drake, Rex Spaith, 1971
Page Views: 15,367
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (275)
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Finishing the 4th pitch

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


1. Climb the groove 5.2, into a 4th class ramp, follow this and then some dirty climbing up on a large ledge and triple bolt belay.

2. Climb directly up above the belay until a delicate rising right traverse (no pro) allows a good crack to be gained. Follow this, until you can scramble under a tree onto a ledge and belay.

3. Follow the ledge left and then climb good cracks up to a hanging bolt belay. This is the first of 3 good pitches.

4. Continue up the crack system until an obvious step right can be made where the cracks continue up to the belay.

5. This last pitch is a good one. This climb saves it very best to the very last few moves. Climb up until a nice finger crack allows progress up and onto the belay.

Descent is via Rappel. Rappel to the 3rd belay. From there Rappel to a tree with a rappel slings, and from there to the bottom. These rappels need double ropes.


Located on the left hand side of the Royal Arches Area. 200' up and left from Serenity Crack.


standard Trad rack 1-2 sets nuts, 1-2 sets cams.

Photos of Super Slide Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt going for it on pitch 5
Matt going for it on pitch 5
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Slide
Super Slide
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Slide 5.9 Royal Arches area. Yosemite Valley
Super Slide 5.9 Royal Arches area. Yosemite Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.9 fingers!
5.9 fingers!
Rock Climbing Photo: Liz approaching the belay atop Pitch 2.
Liz approaching the belay atop Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Griffith jamming through the crux on the fina...
Bill Griffith jamming through the crux on the fina...
Rock Climbing Photo: Liz on the beautiful 4th pitch.
Liz on the beautiful 4th pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: John Ely leading crux finger crack on final pitch ...
John Ely leading crux finger crack on final pitch ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gregory heading up pitch 5.
BETA PHOTO: Gregory heading up pitch 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: suuuper sliide
suuuper sliide
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out. Stoke is high!
Topping out. Stoke is high!
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool guys from LA cruising the start of P5.  Notic...
Cool guys from LA cruising the start of P5. Notic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Liz on the final (5.9) pitch.
Liz on the final (5.9) pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dylan leads P3
Dylan leads P3
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 late in the day
P3 late in the day
Rock Climbing Photo: Javi starting up the third pitch.
Javi starting up the third pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Two people on the penultimate pitch of super slide...
Two people on the penultimate pitch of super slide...
Rock Climbing Photo: money pitch
money pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up P3/P4 connected.
Starting up P3/P4 connected.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gloomy day on the Super Slide.
Gloomy day on the Super Slide.
Rock Climbing Photo: starting P3
starting P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Slide upper ramp.
Super Slide upper ramp.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the 3rd pitch belay stance on Super Sl...
Approaching the 3rd pitch belay stance on Super Sl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the 5th pitch (5.9 hand and finger c...
Looking up at the 5th pitch (5.9 hand and finger c...

Show All 25 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Super Slide Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 28, 2017
By John Clark
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 15, 2017

I climbed this on 10 Sept and the nuts on the bolts for the last rappel were loose (i could take them off with one finger). I didn't have the proper wrench to tighten them, but did my best with my nut tool. If someone could go tighten those shiny suckers down, it would be very appreciated.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you traverse to the left end of the ledge at the end of the 2nd pitch and belay from there, you can run the 3rd and 4th pitches together with a 60-meter rope. This lets you skip the hanging belay, which you will discover on the rappel down is a very uncomfortable place to hang out. Better to skip it if you can.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 31, 2007

A good, fun romp that has some very loose rock, particularly on the last pitch before you gain the clean splitter. Careful what you pull on, I almost dropped a basketball sized chunk onto my belayer before gingerly putting it back in place.

Agree that linking the first two off of the ledge (also covered in loose rocks) is the way to go.

Great route in spite of the patches of loose stuff, and perfect if you're pushing into the grade. Stays in the shade behind the Ahwahnee Buttress until late morning.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 20, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Combining pitches 3 and 4 make for an incredible 180' pitch!
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 9, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Correction to the Supertopo: the bolt anchor indicated atop P1 (p. 123) is gone. Instead, build an anchor in the 5.7 thin crack to the left.
By Mark Griffin
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2008

  • combining pitches 1&2 (60m rope) gets you to the goods faster. Saw no sign of the p1 anchor so just kept going. A 60m rope barely makes it to the first tree on this ledge. Bring some runners if combining these two pitches.
  • agreed that the hanging belay at top of p3 is uncomfortable. Wish we had linked with p4.
  • DO THIS ROUTE! It's so money.
By TinCrow
From: Ca
Dec 2, 2008

We were able to link Pitches 1&2 with a 70 meter rope. We also shifted the belay over on top of pitch 2 and Linked pitches 3&4. From the top of pitch 5 we rapped w/ 2 70M ropes to pitch 3 anchors, then 1 more rap to the gully you started the climb in.(requires some down climbing 20ft')
I lost my wedding ring at the base of Supe Slide or Trial by Fire. Its a silver ring, let me know if you find it. Thanks
By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 20, 2009

Great climb! P3,4 and 5 have some great crack. I would not recommend the alternate 5.8 start (Trial by Fire). I don't think the couple of parties in front of us would recommend it either...
By Sheets
From: Livermore, CA
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I did this for the second time & led every pitch. Linking p3 & p4 really makes it one of the funnest pitches I've done in a good while. Quality climbing. The 5.9 at the top reminds me of a shorter, lower angle version of the splitter absolutely free. Wish it was longer.
By Sarah Kate
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 28, 2009

Objective hazards: The red biting ants that caused us much misery on the East Butt of Middle Cathedral Rock are all over the two lowest rappel stations. Try to avoid squishing them at any costs since, we hypothesize, the noxious smell causes the rest to swarm.

Gear: We saw three mangled metolius cams (orange and yellow) on the top pitches. We did it on camalots and had no issues (bring doubles on the .5s and .75s and plan to bump), but if you climb on metolius, just be wary.
By John Ely
From: DC
Oct 13, 2009

Note that in late Sept 2009, there was a lot of rock fall in the area. We planned to top rope the face climb after our rappel, but got to the bottom and discovered that some 150 pounds of grapefruit sized granite chunks had hit both our packs and cut up our open rope bag. The route seems safe after the first, ground belay, be be careful at the beginning.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Jun 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great linkup with Trial by Fire to avoid the boring approach pitch. Lower section is a bit dirty & forgettable but the final 5.9 section is SWEET!

P4 & the belay above was pouring with water when I did the route this May. P5 was dry at the crux though. Sunshine did manage to burn off the water on the route.

On Trial by Fire my second noticed a grapefruit-sized rock fall near him and it was NOT from a climber above.
By Owen McGrath
Jan 10, 2012

Anyone have any beta on rapping the route with a single 70M rope, stopping at the anchors on pitch 4 on the way?
By Owen McGrath
Jan 17, 2012

Climbed on 1/15/11. Beautiful, and totally worth the two boring first pitches. 1st anchor bolts are gone. Pitches 3-4 linkup beautifully. Crux on P5 is spicy wide fingers for a short while at the very end. Otherwise very manageable, and rather soft for valley 5.9.
By Ryan M
Apr 19, 2012

Did this route twice over the summer of 2012 and it was great!

Just a word of advice, while pulling the rope from the first double rope rappel, out line snagged on a sort of knob directly plumb from the top anchors. I'm not sure if this is dumb luck but this happened on both occasions, being especially obnoxious since my we had to climb to unstick the rope each time. In the future I will probably rap to the top of 4 first to avoid this.
By Cimbing Ivy
From: bay area, CA
Mar 22, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

climbing with a 70m, totally recommend linking P1+P2, P3+P4 and P5 as a single and climb as 3 long pitches! mellow climbing with sweet sections of clean splitters (albeit too short like a tease). i'd say no single move of 5.9 on the entire climb - it sure feels a full number grade easier than Dream Easy just to put it out there.

rappelled with a single 70m (5 raps) with no problem: on your 3rd rappel, you rap back to the tree at the base of P3, then walk across the ledge to the tree on top of P2 to set up the next rappel. your 4th rap takes you down to the huge ledge where you scramble down to skier right for a set of (rather new shiny) anchor with quick links. from there a single 70m takes you down to the ground (go climber left to reach the uphill ground. if you rap straight down, you would be 2 meters short and end up on some 11c slab. tie knots for safety!) happy single rope climbing :)
By Eric Gabel
Mar 26, 2014

The new shiny anchors that Climbing Ivy mentioned are the anchors for a new direct start to Super Slide. Start about a hundred feet down hill to the right of the normal start of Super Slide. There are two starts, left is 5.8 and the right is 5.10a with two bolts. For the left start take pro: thin cams .4" to 3" . Same for the right, but add a 3 1/2" and 4"" piece. Climbs mostly nice cracks to the big main ledge on top of the first pitch of Super Slide. This start avoids the 4th class regular start and is more consistent with the climbing above. Between the two starts is a short bolted slab that is probably 5.11? and goes to its own anchor 70' up. When rappelling, this anchor makes it easy to get off of Super Slide with a single 70m rope with out having to swing to the side as Climbing Ivy mentioned.

- Eric Gabel
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Sep 12, 2014

Super fun alternative to its very popular neighbors! Rope solo'd it with a 70 meter rope and a single rack (double BD 1's) and was completely dandy. Decided to do the "Trail by Fire" off width variation which added a great start to an already awesome climb. The two 5.6 pitches after "TBF" were a little meandering and "so-so" climbing but fun nonetheless. It adds three more pitches making for a fun full day in the sun! The last ten feet of Super Slide are worth all the work! SUPERRRR!!!!!
By Muscrat
Jan 20, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a really strong way to break into "real' Valley cracks. Good exposure, great gear, and a slow grade climb 7-9. AND you get to watch and listen to people pulling their first 10.d on Serenity, which just makes you want to do it!
By Nick_Cov
From: Truckee, CA
May 1, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Linked 3 & 4 made for a fun long pitch. Thin hands up top were perfect for my girlfriend, not so much for me. We rapped the route with 1 70m.
By Kush Khandelwal
Oct 26, 2015

As folks have pointed out, it's entirely possible to rap with a single 70. On the last rap though you will find the anchors of the 11c slab single pitch sport route below you to use for the last rapple. This allows you to descend all the way to the ground avoiding the 4th class downclimb
By Max Rausch
From: Monterey, California
Jun 18, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this last week. Likely the most fun I've ever had on a moderate 5 pitch route. Combining pitch 3 and 4 is definitely the only way to go. Made it car to car in just under 3 hours. (We simul rapped). The 5th pitch finger crack might be a little hard for some if you're not accustomed to valley 5.9 fingers. I would suggest leading Grants Crack 5.9 on the swan slab for a good comparison.
By mpech
Jul 7, 2016

honestly, an awful climb with only one redeeming pitch. One can blame supertopo for making this route popular.
By Alex Souza
From: Walnut Creek, CA
May 14, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The link-up of pitch 3 and 4 made for one of the most enjoyable rope stretching pitches I've climbed. Soooo good.
By leo qiu
From: Davis, CA
Jun 15, 2017

Just did this on June 15 2017. Found no anchor at pitch 1. We looked all over for it. Could someone double check for me if i am correct! We wanted to use only one 70m rope, ended up having to have one person lowered off to the trees right below the ledge at Pitch 1. Tree anchor seems to be in good shape as of now.

When link with 5.8 off width, make sure you go left if you want the 5.6. Right side would work, though it is a bit harder.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 16, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Leo, see my comment below from Sep 9, 2007.
By Rusty Lalkaka
Sep 28, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

We did not place anything larger than a BD 1 the entire climb. Leave the big stuff in the car. 3+4 linked with a 60m with a few feet of simuling.

The rap was a pain in the ass. There is some loose rock above the lower tree that could conceivably get knocked onto the start of the route. Be careful.

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