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Super Slab

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Fallen Goat T 
Forgotten Slab S 
Goat Heaven T 
Heart of Darkness T 
Open Heart T 
Slippery Slab T 
Slippery Slope T 
Super Crack T 
Super Slab Ice T 
Unsorted Routes:

Super Slab Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.5681, -111.7706 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,099
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bsmoot on Oct 16, 2007


53° | 38°

58° | 42°

56° | 41°

53° | 42°

59° | 41°
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BETA PHOTO: All of the green lines are old existing routes don...

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Super Slab is the large, prominent low angle slab you see on the right side of LCC as you enter the canyon. The lower slabs have beautiful water polished granite while the upper slab offers great views.

Here’s a bit of history on Super Slab: Harold Goodro first climbed there in the late 1930’s. In 1961, Layton Kor & Fred Becky climbed there next, shortly followed by Ted Wilson and others. George Lowe and Dave George made the first winter ascent in the 60's.

My first climbing on Super Slab was in 1976, where my brother Jonathan and I followed some of the natural crack systems and a few slab sections. In the 80’s and beyond, SS rarely got visited as new areas and rap bolted routes took off. In 2005, with encouragement from Ted, we decided to climb the blank areas using traditional, bolt protected, ground up technique. We have no way of knowing if these lines have ever been climbed before or not, but it seems unlikely since they stray away from crack systems and any belay spots. Most of the climbing is very easy, which may bore some climbers. Moderate climbing and setting may attract others. The pure friction on the lower slabs can feel quite different from day to day as the temperature and humidity varies. The season is amazingly short, unless you don’t mind climbing in the heat. Summertime provides little, if any shade. Superslab drains a lot of water during spring time and after a rain. Spring and Fall are best. When the river is flowing, a longer approach is necessary. For ice climbers, Avalanche danger is a real concern in winter.

There are some exciting overhanging hand cracks on the right side of the slab. Rockfall is an issue as climbers and Mountain Goats knock stuff off. Most of the gear needed is a small rack consisting of mostly small cams and TCU’s. Almost all of the bolts are stainless steel, thanks to Jonathan. All routes are set up for 2 rope raps (60m).

B Smoot

Getting There 

The narrative:

Start at the Temple Quarry trail at the mouth of the canyon. Walk east for a few minutes to an old abandoned cement building. Cross the river here and follow a trail eastward for about 3 minutes. Cross a deep, narrow streambed. 30' past here a small cairn marks an abrupt switchback heading back west and then uphill. Follow the trail for 5 minutes to a small gully. The trail basically ascends this gully to Super Slab. A steep section is climbed via a short fixed rope/aider. Thanks go to Jonathan for doing most of the trail work.

In Springtime, when the river is flowing, one must cross the stream at the bridge entering the Quarry parking area. A 10-15 minute bushwhack is required to get back to the trail.

B Smoot

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.4 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Super Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Super Slab:
Super Slab Ice   WI2     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 700'   
Fallen Goat   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   
Super Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   
Slippery Slope   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Super Slab

Featured Route For Super Slab
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbs far right line

Goat Heaven 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Super Slab
P1- Climb a short face past a bolt. Diagonal up & right past cracks & flakes to a natural pro. belay at some bushes.P2- Diagonal again up the face past a bolt. Traverse right to a belay in bushes at a bolt at the far right edge of the big roof above.P3- climb up to a cool finger crack which is followed back left and up to belay bolts.(5.7 or 5.8)P4- Ascend the smooth face past bolts to a fixed belay just past a roof.P5- Scramble past the midway ledge/bushes to a belay on the beautiful low angle ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Super Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A Belay Princess with o so much behind her: Black-...
BETA PHOTO: A Belay Princess with o so much behind her: Black-...
Rock Climbing Photo: Late May water skiing!
Late May water skiing!
Rock Climbing Photo: Bring your snorkeling gear
Bring your snorkeling gear
Rock Climbing Photo: Super slabbin
Super slabbin
Rock Climbing Photo: The bridge
BETA PHOTO: The bridge
Rock Climbing Photo: What much of the approach looks like.
BETA PHOTO: What much of the approach looks like.
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Slab on 6 March 2008.
BETA PHOTO: Super Slab on 6 March 2008.

Comments on Super Slab Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 12, 2011
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2007
Route descriptions and more awesome history would be greatly appreciated.

Eventhough moslty moderate, I have scared myself plenty on your worthy routes...par for slab I figure. And I too think this place is rad! Really pretty, great position, great views, lots and lots of rock...

If it wasn't for you and brother smoots work, effort, and vision...we'd be going with what the Ruckman's left us...and that didn't really make Super Slab sound all that good...

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 16, 2007
Great job combining the contributions into one area Perin. Thanks!
By bsmoot
Oct 16, 2007
Agreed...Perin was great to work with.
By tenesmus
Oct 16, 2007
Thanks to everyone for working this out. Especially Perin for dealing with us.
By Powderhound
Oct 17, 2007
I hiked up to Super Slab for the first time yesterday (rain cancelled any climbing, and made for some slick approach conditions). I've climbed in LCC for 28 years, and never took the time to even take a look. This is definitely an overlooked jewel! The approach is clean, if a bit steep, but thanks to the crew who put the effort into this approach, it's no issue! For perspective, the base of Super Slab is at about the same elevation as the base of the Coffin itself, and I'd consider this a MUCH better approach. Also, the route photos are great, with high enough resolution to be able to zoom in and see excellent detail. I'm looking forward to climbing the routes!
By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Oct 10, 2010
Cool area with lots of potential. We got a little lost once or twice, but it wasn't to hard to find. You'll find the trail just up stream from the old cement building. Once on the trail, follow it until you make it to the bridge made of 2x4's. No long after you cross the bridge you will come upon a fork in the trail, take a right. The trail will look like it is going to fork again (this is where we got lost). You take another right, which takes you directly into the stream bed, where the spring runoff comes down. You don't stay in it long, look for the trial to continue on the other side. The trail continues to go left for what seemed to be forever before it turned and went up toward the slab. Eventually you will follow another stream bed carved by runoff most of the rest of the way. There are a few cairns along the way. There are a few places that you will weave off and onto the stream bed making your approach easier. Eventually you will need to go left (I'm kicking myself for not taking a picture of this) and you will find a rope which is anchored to 2 bushes. It will help you get up the tiny slab where the trail continues to the base of 'Fallen Goat'. Be careful from this point reaching your route it is a rather steep approach.
By tenesmus
Oct 10, 2010
I'm curious what you mean by 'lots of potential'?
By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Oct 10, 2010
By potential I meant, it's a big slab and there were plenty of unclaimed FA's from what I could see. There were no documented routes between Forgotten Slab and Super Slab, but plenty of good lines even for single pitch routes. Unless they're just not on MP yet. Props to all those who have already put in hard work developing what is there. It's more than I've ever done, it wasn't meant belittle anything that is already there.
By tenesmus
Oct 11, 2010
I get that. Its just that when you see acres of untouched rock that doesn't necessarily mean room for more routes. When I went, I was impressed that the Smoots had done the lines on the major features that could/should be drilled on lead. One of the big fears for an area like this is that because its lower angle people might grid bolt it or squeeze things. That definitely hasn't happened yet and I hope it stays that way.
By Pete Spri
Jun 11, 2011

If you follow the "spring time/high-water" approach, be aware that it will likely take you approximately 1+ hour to bushwack from the bridge up to the bottom of the superslab (not 10 to 15 minutes).

I should add, the bridge referring to the one that the road for the cars crosses. There used to be(?) a bridge off of the Temple Quarry footpath which was washed out and no longer exists?!!

Regardless, I could not recommend getting there except for crossing the stream in low-water.
By Jim D
Aug 12, 2011
This thing is in the sun by 7 am in August. Start early or suffer.

Approach Info:

In August the water is plenty low to cross.

Total Approach Time is 20-25 minutes.

Park at Temple Quarry Trail near mouth of canyon. Look up Little Cottonwood Trail for 200 meters and you'll see a concrete building. Go just past it, then follow a trail South down to the creek. Cross the creek on rocks, then take a trail that goes East (currently pretty overgrown, but easily followed-I'll take a weedwhacker next time I go). If you haven't crossed the creek within 5 minutes of leaving the parking lot, you've gone too far.

The trail continues East and crosses a ravine on a narrow bridge (Thanks to whoever built that). 30 feet after crossing it take a right. 30 seconds later take another right on a faint trail that goes back into the ravine. The trail then goes West much further than you think it should before it drops you into the runoff gully you'll follow up to the slab. When you get cliffed out, step left and 3rd class past a fixed rope and you'll be at the base of Fallen Goat. You don't really need the rope to get up, but it is nice to have when you come down.

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