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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Strangle Hold T,S 
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Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
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Super Slab Direct Start 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Art Higby & Larry Marquardt, 1973. (Pat Ament, Larry Dalke?)
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 1,181
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Nov 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Wade M. follows P2 of Super Slab Direct Start.

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  • Description 

    This often over looked route has a pretty good first pitch but the second pitch is a little loose and dirty.

    P1: Make a committing move right off the ground and clip a good pin. The crux is trying to get past this pin and it is very height dependent. If your about 6' tall, 11c is probably accurate, taller and it is easier, shorter and it's probably 5.12. Continue up an easier, left-facing dihedral to a broken ledge and belay.

    P2: Climb straight up from the ledge following a broken up crack system that angles slightly left. This pitch is a little runout, but the climbing isn't very difficult, maybe 10a. Belay on the ledge at the start of Super Slab.


    This route starts right off the trail just left of Suparete. Look for a steep face/crack with a Lost Arrow pin in it.


    Standard rack up to a #2 or #3 Camalot.

    Photos of Super Slab Direct Start Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: From the early 70s, note EBs, hexes, stoppers and ...
    From the early 70s, note EBs, hexes, stoppers and ...

    Comments on Super Slab Direct Start Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Larry Marquardt
    Aug 31, 2009

    Art Higby and I did the FFA in 1973
    By YDPL8S
    From: Santa Monica, Ca.
    Sep 1, 2009
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Cool Larry, I think this picture was taken around that same time, might have been '74, I'll have to check the date on my slide. Chuck Tolton and I think Mark Jansen were there that day, along with Gary. I'm not sure who the belayer is.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Feb 15, 2016
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    Technical but secure way though it is to start from the good feet, paste the left foot up on the offset and windmill though with the right hand into the crack above the left (which is just above the pin) before going left hand onto the jug. Then the hard part is over. Technical and grunty.

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