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Making the reach after traversing right around the...
A high-angle slab, face climb from hell. This route wanders for 10-15 feet back and forth as you struggle to connect the crystals that form your only holds. If you're short (i.e., not 5'9"), you might not even be able to start this climb; at 5'6", I couldn't even get off the ground. Named Super Skink because, as the FA said, "It's totally sandbagged at 5.10; more like 5.10d or harder".
This route is on the face on the OTHER side of the Golden Dream route; go through the squeeze hole to the right. The route starts on top of some stacked blocks/ledges, about 6-8 feet off the ground; go up for about 8 feet, then traverse right under the small roof for about 10-15 feet; go up about 5 feet, then traverse left for about 10-15 feet; go up to top.
There is absolutely no gear whatsoever. Use the bolts for the Golden Dream to provide an anchor.
Moving left above the overhang.
Oct 23, 2011
OK, so it's more like 10b, assuming you can reach the horizontal at the right end of the traverse.