|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Nils & R.M Preshaw, 1992|
|Submitted By:||harihari on Jul 30, 2010|
|Comments on Super Direct||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Eugene Kwan
Aug 10, 2012
Great route! Should get done a lot more often. The line is amazing and reminded me of Yosemite.
- route can be rappelled with one 70 m rope; should also be possible with a 60 m, though there might be a small amount of downclimbing
- extra medium nuts would be useful for P1 and P2
- the route is cold in the morning. The sun hit the route around 12:30 (Aug 9/12) and we didn't head up until then. Don't bother with an early start.
- The traverse on pitch 6 is a bit spicy, but I would call it 5.9, not 10c.
By Tim Banfield
From: Calgary, Alberta
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kind of thought that the 2 last pitches were a bit serious for the 2nd. They were a bit heady for the leader too.
- We took 2 ropes so that we could rap without the intention of using our tag line on the climb. I was super stoked as the 2nd to have the tag line on the last 2 pitches. Sam was able to tag the 2nd line up and protect me on the traverse from above.
- We also thought that for additional gear we would add 2 sets of cams below .3". I was certainly glad to have them on the second pitch leading at my limit.
Jun 21, 2013
|We linked the first two pitch's, superb.....When I do it again, I would let the Sun hit it first it was cold. Lots of finger sized gear and bigger cams #4 BD for the upper pitches.|
By Roy Preshaw
Oct 4, 2013
Historical note. First ascent 31 July 1992. The original Beckey-Greenwood meandered across the face to gain the central gully, and bolted and nailed to exit the right wall. We felt Fred Beckey had missed the beautiful initial crack.
At the old aid section (P6 above) we strung small wired stoppers on direct aid bolts for protection and were surprised to free the slab easily. If these bolts are corroded out this slab will be a little more serious. As above, both leader and second are at risk of falling out the final crack.
We don't know if this qualifies as a classic, but certainly the upper and lower thirds are pretty nice in the afternoon sun. Wildflowers wilts by comparison. We're sorry to hear the first section needed to be cleaned - it was pretty clear in 1992 (see photo).
It's also neat that you can rap right down to where you left the boots used on the glacier.
Nils and Roy Preshaw