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Super Slab
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Fallen Goat T 
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Super Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ? Bolted by J & B Smoot 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,911
Submitted By: bsmoot on Sep 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Looking down through the crack from the belay.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


P1- Climb the clean low angle slab for 160' to a bolted belay.
P2- Move right over a short, fun roof. Ascend the face above to a fixed belay below the impressive roof.
P3- Layback the 1" corner to the crack. The overhanging hand crack is Sweeeeeeet! Belay at it's top to avoid rope drag. (5.10)
P4- Move the belay up 35'
P4- A moderate pitch leads past bolts & pins to a belay at the midway ledge.(190')
P5- Ascend the ever steepening slab (great rock) past 2 bolts to a belay under a roof...5.7 or 5.8
P6- friction past bolts and a pin to a belay under a roof at 3 bolts. (same belay as Goat Heaven). Rap off using 2 ropes.

Variation: Superfingers...On pitch 2 traverse right and up to a belay beneath another overhanging crack. Crank out the overhanging fingers and hands to a belay at it's top. (5.11) Join Goat Heaven from here.

Variation: Aid Crack 15' below the overhanging Super Crack is a C1 aid crack...could go free.

Variation: Instead of climbing Super Crack (5.10) follow the fingercrack up the corner to the upper belay (5.8)

Variation: From Pitch 2, diagonal up & left to a bulge. Move back right, above the roof (don't fall) past 2 bolts to the upper belay.(5.8)


Start 15' left of Goat Heaven.


Extra hand sized cams to a #3 camalot.

Photos of Super Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew on the Super Crack pitch.
Andrew on the Super Crack pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Crack
BETA PHOTO: Super Crack

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By tenesmus
Sep 25, 2007

You won't believe how steep this is until you climb it. Nice, juggy hands too.
By Mike Stearns
Oct 1, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Short, but very steep. Lots of slab climbing for a very short crack. It is worth doing if you are looking for cracks to jam.
By Todd Green
From: SLC, UT
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Very, very fun crack, overhanging with the infamous LCL (Little Cottonwood Lean) too bad it isn't longer. Doesn't seem like the upper pitches get much action given how much kitty litter we swept off of them. You can run both of the "P4s" together with a 70m so we didn't move the belay up as per the description above. You can almost run P5 and P6 together. (We ended up simulclimbing the last 15' or so, pretty much from the last bolt to the anchors.) Thanks for putting this up and the work on the trail to get there! A great alternative to the crowds directly across the canyon.
By Pete Spri
Sep 25, 2011

I don't know... I mean, it is a good crack, but it is only about 15 feet. For me, it was hands at the very bottom, but most of it was cupped hands and closer to fists. One set of cams up to 3.5" is fine for this route. One 2.5" cam from the stance at the bottom, one 3.5" cam after you make one or two moves from the bottom, then it's over. I think the gear recommendation of taking extra hand sizes is off, but that is just me.

If it was longer, or the climbing up to it was better it'd get 2 stars, but as is, it's just not enough of either to be more than 1 star, IMO.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 25, 2011

"Super Crack" = misnomer.

a handful of smaller cams, one #2 and one #3 BD for the hand crack, a half-dozen draws and a few long slings will do it.

About half (or more) of this climb can be done without using your hands. We simul-climbed virtually everything above the hand crack (i.e., cupped-hands or fist crack).
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 25, 2011

Supercrack, 6 pitches, 5 of which are slabs. You guys heard of Bushwack? Go do that next time and moan that there isn't enough slabbing on it...
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Aug 4, 2017

This thing is awesome! Rest of the climb makes for nice easy slabbing. While easy, it has some pretty long run outs. Pretty good mental practice for those wanting to get practice for the more moderate slab climbs in the canyon. Although short, this thing is steep! I would agree with the rest that a single rack should do it for experienced crack climbers, but if you're new to crack climbing, or are nervous, a second BD three or two could be used. You'd be really sewing it up and likely using more energy to place the cams than just gunning it. Went from saggy 2s, to perfect 2s then finished with 3s. Takes Metolius 7 and 8s a bit better in my mind, but either will get you up the crack.

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