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Super Chango
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Tecolote Cave
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Alpha Griller S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Amor S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Andrada Power S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Chi S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Codyote S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Culo de Fuego S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Culo De Merlin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Descondido S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El Gallo de Oro S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fibonacci Sequence S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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H Bomb S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Huiratica S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Kika Shredder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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La Creación S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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La Violencia S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Lawton's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Limestoner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nosferatus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Soul Power S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Spider Love S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Super Chango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Tecolote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tu Felicidad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 185 ft (56 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jimmy Carse and Ricardo Ramos |
| Page Views: | 626 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Apr 12, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
Description
This long route would make for an ok warmup if it wasn't so hard to get to the base of, and if the rock was just a bit better.
After scrambling up to the base of the climb, clip closely spaced bolts up sub par rock while traversing rightwards. After a few bolts continue straight up through well spaced bolts and questionable rock to a few fun moves on a cool tufa at the very top.
Pitch 2 of Super Chango is 5.13a, breaks off to the right of this about 3/4 of the way up to another anchor and cave, where you can unrope and walk around.. From there follow the bolt line up the tufas and up right through pumpy over hanging tufas. The view is the 2nd best in the canyon no doubt. Ricardo and I swapped leads with the drill clipped to our harness to bolt this on lead. , no aid climbing , just tying off tufas to drill.
1 Comment