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Chicken Head Ranch
Routes Sorted
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Bart's Route S 
Beaks and Feet S 
Chicken Spit S 
Cluck Cracks T 
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 
Crystal Key, The S 
Extra Crispy S 
Finger Lickin' Good S 
Fracture, The T 
Funky Chicken S 
Measure Up, The S 
Mini-Slab S 
Mini-Splitter T 
Raining Chickens S 
Super Chicken S 
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 
Thunder Chicken S 
Unjust S 
Wank Variation S 
Wishbone Dihedral S 
Yellow Dot S 

Super Chicken 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Matt Allenbach
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 711
Submitted By: Mike Carrington on Aug 10, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Matt working his way up the finger crack.

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Description 

Start low where there is a easy crack or traverse in to the right from above the gully. Climb through a slot and step left to the slab. Climb straight up the line of bolts or stay left for an easier variation. Climb right to a stance below a thin finger crack and crank off some good locks and to the chains.

Location 

Start about 5 feet right of the large boulder or traverse in from above the gully.

Protection 

Draws.


Photos of Super Chicken Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt starting up the route on the FA.
Matt starting up the route on the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the notch.
Just past the notch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing into the notch.
Climbing into the notch.

Comments on Super Chicken Add Comment
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By Parker Wrozek
From: Denver, CO
Jun 21, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Probably one of my least favorite climbs. It has a lot of rope drag, moss on holds, lichen everywhere, and bushes to push through. I was confused on the "correct" finish, since another route shares an anchor. I went left, but getting on what I would say is the other route to the right looked better. My partner and I both really disliked the climb. It did have some interesting moves on the second and third sections. I think the crux is on the third section where it was decent hands but a committing right foot smear on lichen.

It has 12 bolts plus something for the 2 bolt anchor with chains.

I would consider other 9s and 10s at this wall before this route.

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