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American Spur
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Super Calanque S 

Super Calanque 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 425', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: hightide on Apr 27, 2016

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Pitch 3

Summer closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 starts with easy face climbing up to a 15 foot polished crack and chimney. Belay from a ledge at the top of the chimney. 5.9 (40 meters)

P2 moves right onto a small dihedral and then right again across the face. Belay from obvious ledge. 5.6 (25 meters)

P3 two options, you can either move up the crack directly above the belay or you can head out to right onto the face where a second slightly easier crack is available. Belay from obvious ledge. 5.8 (25 meters)

P4 two options, you can either go up the crack directly above the belay that gradually becomes more thin and polished (this is the original route 5.10a). Alternatively, you can move right above the belay onto the slab for thin face climbing (5.10b variant). Both varients have the same 15 foot finish over a chimney. 5.10a (40 meters)

Rap down the route or climb the trail an additional 25 feet and walk off following the cairns to the Northeast to a short 30 meter rap.

Location 

Route is located on the southwest side of Calanque En Vau on the American Spur. Best access is by boat. Alternatively you can drive to Calanque En Vau and hike/rappel down the route.

Protection 

Bolts, fixed anchors


Photos of Super Calanque Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4
Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 above the chimney
Pitch 1 above the chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Calanque
BETA PHOTO: Super Calanque

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