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Super Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Gary Clark
Page Views: 4,510
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (100)
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The position and exposure on the route are wild.

Description 

Airy, exposed and fun climbing on the left edge of the Super Slab wall. Highly photogenic. Bolt spacing is a bit wider than more modern sport routes this the route offers a rewarding mental experience for those stepping up to the challenge.

Location 

The left edge/arete of the Super Slab Wall

Protection 

9 bolts to a two-bolt anchor


Photos of Super Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the Super Slab shot from the top of The Ba...
This is the Super Slab shot from the top of The Ba...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber
Unknown climber
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber
Unknown climber
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber
Unknown climber
Rock Climbing Photo: Rachael moving up to more buckets on Super Arete. ...
Rachael moving up to more buckets on Super Arete. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody enjoying the dance up Super Arete on a crispy...
Cody enjoying the dance up Super Arete on a crispy...

Comments on Super Arete Add Comment
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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I believe Gary Clark bolted this route. Crux move is 8. Route mostly 5.7. Moving to first bolt no problem. Crux is between bolts 2 and three. A move near top also an 8.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Agreed, first bolt isn't an issue here.
By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Jun 15, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

this is only a 5.7 to people solid on 5.10 if it had twice the bolts so you would not break your legs it might be the 5 star route it could be to the people at the 5.8 grade.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 15, 2010

This route was fun but a little run out for a 5.8 leader (if you don't have a good head). There are some loose blocks on the arete so tread lightly 3/4 of the way up. The clip anchors at the top are getting worn down. Maybe due to the amount its climbed or perhaps people are top roping trough the anchors. Please add draws to the anchor to save the clips.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very fun route with good exposure and length. Could use another couple bolts, but should be safe with a careful belayer. I think a solid 5.8 leader would be fine on this as there is really only one 5.8 move between the second and third bolts. Top overhang move is fun too.

Sadly the weather got really bad as I was leading it and we couldn't do Clast Action to the right, which also looks great.
By Finn Foster
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Amazing route. I rate it 5.8+ just becasue it is run-out and very heady. The moves are 5.7/+ , but very fun and the clips are easy. If you can conquer your inner fears of falling on slab, you will LOVE what this route does for you mentally. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
By djkyote
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

What Lance said. Also, I feel that bolting like this for potential 20' wippers on chossy conglomerate is irresponsible. And the anchors are through a single cobble. The cobble looks relatively good, but still.

Overwise, a great line. Just be comfortable leading 10s.
By Eric A.
May 8, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Long, fun route. Not difficult but not exactly a walk in the park either.

A little bit of sketchy movement going for the second bolt but felt well-protected after that. The only slightly run-out section was the easiest stretch of the wall and full of no hand rest points. There were 9 bolts when I climbed so not sure if the amount of protection has increased since the previous comments.
By Andrew B. Ellis
Jun 12, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Long and chossy. Bolt spacing felt OK to me, but the climbing was a little bit of a bummer. Lots of loose rock - keep people out of the fall line of this route, and have belayer wear a helmet. OK route, but if you are up for it, skip this one and climb the other three on this wall.
By farkas.time
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 29, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed most of the stuff at the Balcony, then finished on this. It's far and a away the best climb I did at Rito that day -- looking forward to trying more. It was also stiffer at the grade and thrilling. Perhaps I missed the 5.7 beta, but I thought it was harder than 5.8. It had sections requiring not power, but technique with thoughtful and at times tenuous body positioning & movement. Agreed it's heady, largely thanks to the bolt job, but that just makes is better! Well done.

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