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Leading Sunup (5.8) on the Lower Sun Tower in Unaw...
Sunup is easily one of the best routes on the Sun Towers. Very thoughtful, well bolted, and on superb rock, this route should not be missed. The Lower Sun Tower is divided into lower and upper tiers by a shallow notch. Sunup is located where the access trail approaches the rock below the lower tier's apex. The route's bolts are easy to spot once below the rock.
Straightforward route past seven or eight bolts. The first bolt is a little ways off the ground, but the climbing isn't bad. The crux felt like it was right after the 2nd bolt. Near the top of the route (after the fifth or sixth bolt), the route wanders right to a flake that runs parallel with Crack of Don
. Continue up to the anchors. While never harder that 5.8, this route is steep and sustained. It does not let up until just above the last bolt. Excellent route.
Rappel with a single rope from the anchors.
Eight draws and something for the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Lower Sun Tower climbs.
From the anchors on Sunup.
By Matt Ting
Oct 8, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If you're headed to the lower tower, make this your first stop. Fun route on solid rock, straightforward, nice anchors and great views back up the canyon. You can TR Crack of Don from these anchors if you really want to; nothing to exciting there. The trail from the road is in great shape and obviously is well cared for by the property owners.
By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
May 29, 2010
If you're looking for another line here, the Sunup face goes trad as well. The gear version starts at a 5.7 tips crack (if there is such a thing) in between the bolted line and Crack of Don and follows the thin crack eventually crossing the bolted line the the 4th bolt. From there, you basically stay left of the bolts. Ethical or Contrived, but no more than climbing a bolted crack in the first place....