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Sunshine 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Dennis Oakeshott, Bob Harrington, July 1976
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jul 5, 2015

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Photo: Mt. Hofmann

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

When put up in the mid 70's this was your typical Tuolumne hard man horror show with single, 1/4" bolt belays, 1-2 pieces of protection per pitch, etc. Nowadays with other routes in the area and rebolting the route has been tamed a bit, but it is still an exciting adventure.

My description is of the line of the original first ascent. Variations, most notably of the second pitch, exist.

Pitch 1 - start in a small right facing corner/ramp which leads up and left to a ledge. Once you gain the ledge, climb more or less staright up the face on knobs past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rings.

Pitch 2 - climb up a small right facing corner/crack to a roof. A 5.10a move right under the roof(hard to protect for the second) leads for about 20-25 feet until a break allows one to climb over the roof(5.8). Proceed up and slightly left to a belay underneath another roof at two bolts with rings.

Pitch 3 - do a double mantel over the roof(5.10a) with a fixed pin then proceed up and left to a belay at a large flake with two bolts.

Pitch 4 - the crux pitch. Climb up a steep face past a fixed pin to a small roof. Surmount the roof and belay at a small ledge on the left with two bolts and rings.

Pitch 5 - move right and get pro in a small crack then go up and a bit left on knobs(5.9) two a two bolt belay with rings near a large, peach-sized knob.

Pitch 6 - continue climbing to the top. No protection to speak of, but only 5.7.

Location 

This starts about 200-300 feet right of Oz. Walk off if your legs aren't shaking too much.

Protection 

Bolts, but only a few of them, provide the majority of the protection on this climb. A few pieces up to 1" might help mediate the pucker factor.


Comments on Sunshine Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Jul 13, 2015

"Am I really supposed to be here?

How long is this gonna go on for?

What the f*#k are we doing?

Wow, pretty rock-

This is kind of intense...."
By Neal H. Konami
Aug 17, 2016

I referenced both the 1983, and then the 1992 Reid/Falkenstein Topos for this climb. I actually believe the 1983 topo is the most accurate! On the other hand, the 2009 SuperTopo description is useless. If the editors couldn't accurately draw the first/only pitch for their guidebook, they should have left this climb out altogether rather than hyping it, and no matter how good the quality. No doubt, this is a beautiful and spectacular, but very dangerous climb that has always enjoyed a solid R/X rating by traditional Tuolumne Meadows standards. Be very careful on the first two pitches which are especially steep and run-out. Also be ready for the fifth (5.9) and sixth (5.7) pitches which have very little or no protection at all. If you're still up for Sunrise, continue upward using the much easier "Middle Earth" or "Hobbit Book" to exit via the top of Mariuolumne Dome, and then back down and right to the Drug Dome parking lot. Just got back from a trip to the Meadows, including new climbs on Drug Dome this past week. Happy to say that OZ/Gram Traverse, Sunshine, and all of the other hard man routes put up in the late-70s and 80s in the Meadows have more than stood-up to the test of time.

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