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Sunshine Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Faith T,S 
Dangles Crack T,TR 
Kimchi S,TR 
Rusty Nail, The 

Sunshine Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 30'
Location: 42.6147, -70.7311 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,555
Administrators: Joe M., Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris McNeil on Jan 24, 2012
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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This crag makes it offical, that the Redrocks conservation area contains a little bit of everything. This beautiful wall is about 200+ feet long; only about 15 to 30 feet high, most of the wall is overhanging with some amazing lines. There are a handful of very low grade tradable lines, but most of the lines are in the 5.10 and up region.

This crag faces south to Route 128 and will be dry by mid-day if the sun is out after a rain. This is also the only south-facing crag in the Redrocks area.


A. Kimchi, 10, 1p, 15', bolts or TR.
B. The Rusty Nail, A1-, 1p, 20', gear & bolts.
C. Dangles Crack, 10+, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

Getting There 

You can either follow the trail from the north end of main wall down through the swamp past some nice but uncleaned slabs until you hear the highway. Or, you can walk up over the top on main wall to a trail on the south end of the summit. The connecting trail is under development.

Nearby Crags 

In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

Rock Climbing Photo: Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just ...
Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.9 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sunshine Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sunshine Wall:
Kimchi   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 15'   
Dangles Crack   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 20'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sunshine Wall

Featured Route For Sunshine Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Dangles Crack.

Dangles Crack 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Massachusetts : Cape Ann : Sunshine Wall
This is one of Cape Ann's best crack climbs! With a awesome layback on overhanging red granite, make your way up to the top. The crux is where the crack runs out. Make a big reach for the top and mantle....[more]   Browse More Classics in Massachusetts

Photos of Sunshine Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: South Wall.
BETA PHOTO: South Wall.

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