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Entering the crux hand traverse.
The route is in the popular Unsaid area of the West Ridge. Use the directions from The Unsaid
, Washington Irving
, or Cruising for Burgers
to locate this area. Once the area is located, find the climb Washington Irving
. To locate Sunshine Wall, look at the top of Washington Irving
and follow a ramp down and to the left. The "ramp" is very small and is sloping down outwards, and on the right side, but is coming from the left of the top of the pitch. The ramp is anywhere from a few inches wide at the top to huge at the botom (before disappearing [beneath] a large roof). The smallness of the last bit of ramp makes the climb somewhat awkward. Follow this line down until the ramp becomes much larger, below and left of a massive roof/ bulge. That is the upper portion of Sunshine wall. A few hand-sized [pieces] protect that section, if memory serves me correctly. The crack system leading directly up to this ramp (a little chunky) is the first part of the climb.
Alternatively, to find the climb... scramble up some Class 4 rock to get to the good rock and then look just a few feet to the right of the line Chianti
(left of Washington Irving
). Start up the chunky crack system near a small pine tree. The crack system peters out a bit after a bulge, then go up a face/slab to the afforementioned roof, where you tend to the right to gain the small part of the sloping "ramp", which is followed up and right to the tree.
The climb is described as 2 pitches, but with some longer slings can easily be done as a single pitch.
Rap from the top of Washington Irving
Standard Rack with a few cams. It can be TR'd from the tree and anchors above Washington Irving.
Peeking around the corner before the crux.
Chuck Graves powers into the strenuous finish as t...
Christa Cline making the final step to Washington ...
Christa Cline halfway across the hand traverse.Goo...
Christa Cline starting the committing hand travers...
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Feb 14, 2002
Another way to locate this fun route is as follows:
Go up the corner immediately right of Chianti. When you get onto the big ledge below a big roof, Chianti goes left and Sunshine Wall goes right. The move around the corner protects with small cams or nuts and the ramp to the belay is the highlight of the route.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 1, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
If Chianti is 3 stars, this is 2 stars. Good rock and position. Decent gear. Strenuous finish. Move right towards the arete before reaching the ramp for a better line but less gear.
By Jay Eggleston
Dec 26, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This route should be climbed more often. The climbing is fun and puts you in a spectacular position.