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Sunshine Wall

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Sunshine Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.86085, -109.74243 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 16, 2003

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Buffalo Petroglyph

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  • Description 

    The Sunshine Wall is a long formation of Wingate sandstone that runs north to south for probably a mile or more. To the north (left) side of the formation, the walls are slabby with routes having mixed bolts and natural pro. The southern part of the formation has small twisted towers and steeper rock.

    Getting There 

    Sunshine Wall can either be reached by driving roads east from US 191 or by going through Arches NP on a gravel road. Probably the fastest way is from 191. Look for a good non-paved road heading east between mile markers 152 and 153. Drive about a mile, and then take a right immediately after crossing a small bridge. In another ~2 miles, take a right at a T-junction. From here start looking for Sunshine Wall. It will be obvious on the left, and a mild 4WD road cuts off left to the base.

    To get to the Sunshine Wall through the park, take a left on Salt Valley trail and follow it to the edge of the park, which is obvious with a fence and a cattle guard. Keep going a couple of miles and watch for Sunshine Wall on the right.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 7.7 miles from here

    18 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Sunshine Wall

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sunshine Wall:
    Learning Curve   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Sunshine Wall Routes
    Tezcatlipoca   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sunshine Wall Routes
    Melanoma Shuffle   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   Sunshine Wall Routes
    Love Hurts   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Sunshine Wall Routes
    Neopolitan Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Sunshine Wall Routes
    Science Friction   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Sunshine Wall Routes
    Lesson in Braille   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   Sunshine Wall Routes
    Walking on Sunshine   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Sunshine Wall Routes
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sunshine Wall

    Featured Route For Sunshine Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches Nat...

    Science Friction 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13  Utah : Moab Area : ... : Sunshine Wall Routes
    A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...) Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). The "mental" crux begins mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.Occasional reflect and question yourself, of course. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

    Photos of Sunshine Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sunshine Wall.  Climber; George Armstrong.  Photo;...
    Sunshine Wall. Climber; George Armstrong. Photo;...
    Rock Climbing Photo: "Cowboy" pertoglyphs......Photo   Todd G...
    "Cowboy" pertoglyphs......Photo Todd G...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Some climbers taking advantage of the late sun. Ta...
    Some climbers taking advantage of the late sun. Ta...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Calling all offwidth climbers. We used to refer to...
    Calling all offwidth climbers. We used to refer to...
    Rock Climbing Photo: For those of you lucky enough to get out here, you...
    For those of you lucky enough to get out here, you...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of the Sunshine Wall.
    Left side of the Sunshine Wall.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sunshine Wall
    Sunshine Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: We loved the views, esp. the beautiful partly clou...
    We loved the views, esp. the beautiful partly clou...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dogs loved it.
    Dogs loved it.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Erica working out her her Yoga stretches in our be...
    Erica working out her her Yoga stretches in our be...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Sunshine Wall with some areas/routes marked fo...
    The Sunshine Wall with some areas/routes marked fo...

    Comments on Sunshine Wall Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 11, 2005
    This road to the sunshine wall can be a serious quagmire if there has been any recent precip. It is that "moondust" type stuff that turns into a burley slick clay when wet. We got our 2wd car stuck up to the doors trying to "go for it". Just a heads up. the newer looking line on the wall (this sight shows it as "melanoma shuffle") was a fun route, and the hidden bolt at the "roof" was a happy surprise. Fun route!
    By westy
    From: Loveland, Co
    Jun 10, 2006
    Note.....after the "T" go right for about 1.5 miles and take the second left turn,,,,,,caution,,,,,you need a 4 x 4 for this or stop short becuase you will get stuck in the soft sand. The rock is brown, white and red just like the neopolitan ice cream.
    By toddgordon Gordon
    From: Joshua Tree, California
    Apr 28, 2007
    A group of friends ventured out to do these cool climbs a few years ago;.... the slab climbs were cool, but not as cool as the "coyboy" petroglyphs on the boulders;....the naked lady one was a favorite of our clan of climbers. This place is really worth a visit;'s stark, quiet ( I hope) , and quite beautiful. A place to experience and enjoy with pals.
    By Tea
    Aug 31, 2007
    These climbs do not exist within the park boundaries.
    By Dave Fiorucci
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Sep 25, 2007
    I am heading to Moab. Does anybody know if you can bring dogs to the Sunshie Wall.., It looks like camping is an option from the photo, but is it pay per use or is it primitive camping?
    By tom selleck
    Sep 26, 2007
    Primitive camping. Dogs OK. Really pretty cool area that doesn't seem to attract a lot of people.
    By rob bauer
    From: Golden, CO
    Aug 25, 2010
    If you camp there, there are also some routes farther left, North, of the Sunshine wall proper, in a shallow amplitheater. They are moderate and leadable, with bolts in place; but some of the anchor bolts didn't have anchors in 2005. Fun to do if you have a few hours to spend. A single rope will do the trick.
    By jason malczyk
    From: General Delivery
    Nov 5, 2010
    There are two unknown routes on the right slabs. One is right of Science Friction seemed 5.11, crimpy through roof. Other was right of and shared anchors with Walking on Sunshine.
    By Christian Gostout
    Mar 21, 2017
    Stewart Green's book says that a 70m rope will work for sunshine wall. This is NOT true for the science friction slab. The slab has great climbs, but bring two ropes up with you so you don't have to leave a piece on the wall!

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