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Sunshine Ridge
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Sunshine Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 5,831
Submitted By: Ty Morrison-Heath on May 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Stoke levels high after summit.


The best rock quality out on the highway (second pitch)? Actually a fun multipitch although on the easy side, Sunshine Ridge is a great afternoon climb. The route starts about 50 feet up the scree gully below morning star. Look for bolts that lead left on a short slab. This is likely most often done as an afterwork solo. It is often done in the winter with tools, and is good prep for alpine mixed.

There are many possible variations that you can start on from the road including mayday, and the two unknown 5.10a's. If you're feeling creative you can also link the Thrombosis climbs into this route.

Pitch 1: 5.7, from some boulders about 50ft up the scree slab, climb past a few bolts (button head) and up onto the ridge. After about 60-70ft from the deck there is small ledge to belay off of with some gear. You can also keep climbing to one bolt one chain anchor above that. 150ft.

Pitch 2: 5.7 From the anchor climb up and to the left and climb a small bulge with some bolts. Climb up past bolts to a large boulder on a ledge. Belay from here. 120ft.

Pitch 3: 5.7 From the boulder climb up the face with some bolts. Climb the 5.6 moves to more easy climbing. There is a two bolt anchor above this. 100ft.

Pitch 4: 5.7 Climb up and left from the anchor to a left to a leftwards leaning crack, climb this and cut back right past a bolt to a two bolt anchor on a small ledge. There are also opportunities to belay from gear above the anchor. 100ft

To descend follow the trail left that will take you down to the car. I have seen some creative and sketchy raps of this route. Usually using the sawed off telephone poles. This is generally not recommended.


This route can be done on a rack of quick draws by most parties, although for those less comfortable with significant runouts in easy climbing, a single rack of cams maybe .3 in to 1.5 inches or stoppers would be fine. You can skip all the bolts and climb this route on gear by staying either right or left. Regardless of whether you choose to clip bolts or plug gear, bring plenty of slings to reduce drag, and plenty of anchor material, including some long sections of webbing or cord to sling the big boulder.

Photos of Sunshine Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wesley looks for bolts on Sunshine Ridge
Wesley looks for bolts on Sunshine Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Catching sun-rays on the ridge
Catching sun-rays on the ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: More wind than sun this time around.
More wind than sun this time around.
Rock Climbing Photo: Good views from the ridge.
Good views from the ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hailey on the 2nd pitch of Sunshine Ridge
Hailey on the 2nd pitch of Sunshine Ridge

Comments on Sunshine Ridge Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
May 27, 2013

I'd say the climb is closer to 450 feet in length - I stretched the first and last pitches to 45-50M each. Also, this thing is in a bit of disrepair - there are a handful of chopped bolts/stolen hangers, and the bolted belay atop P2 has been chopped (no biggie, gear belay from a solid hand-size crack or go up another 15' and tie off a boulder). The walk-off is to climber's left, and drops you very close to your car. Do not be tempted to descend climber's right - this gully is very loose, steep scree. I'll give it three stars for it's scenic views, length, and overall adventure feel.
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Aug 31, 2013

Fun solo! Also, the entire climb goes on gear if you stay to the right.
By Griswald
May 16, 2014

Best route on the arm!
By The Shocker
Sep 26, 2014

Sunshine butress seems to have grown as many additional bolts in the last ten years as Anchorage has coffee shops.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
From: Anchorage
Apr 17, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Who thought it was okay to shit on the ledge with the boulder? WTF is wrong with you? Stacking rocks on it doesn't make it better. Seriously go take care of it. Moron.
By Chris Walden
From: Soldotna, Alaska
Jun 14, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

06/03/2017 - While I admire your taste in beer leaving 3 bottles and bottle caps of Guinness Blonde on route doesn't follow Leave No Trace principals ;-) Thank you very much we cleaned and packed your sh!t out. At least we didn't see the sh!t mentioned above ^^^
By Kevin Downie
Jul 22, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Didn't see the single chain anchor for 1st pitch. I saw a 2 chain anchor that I figured was for another climb, so worked on up, but ran out of length on a 60m rope. Has another chain been added? I assume the chain is to the right of the broken telephone pole?
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Jul 22, 2017

You passed the correct anchor. The first pitch anchor was replaced in 2015 and is now links and rap rings. There is no anchor on the lower ledge with the sawed off pole unless you use the stump. A gear anchor can be made if you miss the 2 bolt and rap ring anchor.

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