Sunshine on a Dark Day
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BETA PHOTO: Sunshine on a Dark day. The finger crack in the u...
This is a decent crack climb, which takes gear well. Climb up the steep right facing corner to a bulge and step right to a small platform at about 30 feet. Step back left and follow a nice lower angle finger crack up the face to its top. From here one can either step left to climb another short right facing corner, or climb directly up a low 5th class arête. Note that if one chooses to climb the arête, there is no protection for the last 30 feet or so. There is no bolted anchor at the top of the climb. It is easiest to belay from one of the trees on top of Snag Buttress. The lower portion on this route is prone to vegetation, so be ready to potentially garden some placements on the way up.
This route is the farthest right on the snag buttress and begins in a right facing corner. To get there one can continue traversing the exposed ledges at the base of the snag buttress eastward, eventually making a fourth class hand traverse. Another option is to cross the grassy benches (eastward) below the belay ledges for the other snag buttress climbs. A trail on the other side of the benches picks up and can be followed uphill to the east portion of the main wall.
Gear to 1"
No fixed anchor, belay from trees
By Dave "sound" Richards
Jan 18, 2015
I'm not sure how long they have been there but as of January 2015, the arête now has 1 bolt and there is a 2-bolt anchor just short of the Snag Buttress ledge.
By Kemper Brightman
Sep 30, 2016
This enjoyable corner and crack system seems to be overlooked by most. Its a fantastic way to start the Ray Auld Memorial Route, or access the high quality pitches of Touching the Sky and Freedom Fighter. Its a great single pitch in its own right. Not to be missed!