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Sunshine Dihedral 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown, pre-1981?
Page Views: 5,195
Submitted By: Michael Kullman on Oct 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Sunshine Dihedral. Photo by Stanibaby.


This is the beautiful, large, right-facing dihedral to climber's left of Upside The Cranium. The Hubbel guidebook lists this climb as 5.10a/b. We clipped the first two bolts of UTC to protect the start. The majority of the start and lower portion of the dihedral is 5.8/9 climbing easily protected with small / medium gear. Over the last 25-30 feet, the dihedral arcs dramatically to the right across a steepening face. This makes for a fairly strenuous jamming / stemming / smearing crux rewarded by positive holds at the top of the dihedral to an easy finish. This is a high quality route, well worth doing.


Pro to 4". A #2 Camalot is oh-so-nice for the crux.

Photos of Sunshine Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin getting it done.
Kevin getting it done.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climbers on Sunshine Dihedral, June 2014.
Unknown climbers on Sunshine Dihedral, June 2014.
Rock Climbing Photo: A little bit of libacking.
A little bit of libacking.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting sucked into the crux. Solid 5.10.
Getting sucked into the crux. Solid 5.10.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lance Lewallen sends.
Lance Lewallen sends.
Rock Climbing Photo: This route is steep!
This route is steep!
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of P2.
Start of P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: TR, the swing isn't as bad as it looks.
TR, the swing isn't as bad as it looks.
Rock Climbing Photo: A shot of me after finishing the easier lower sect...
A shot of me after finishing the easier lower sect...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 6, 2016
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 15, 2002

After you clip the two bolts it is runout to the start of the dihedral. If you fall on this section, you will fall about 30 feet onto a ledge. Check the hand/foot holds carefully, one shifted as I got my weight on it. Don't fall. Sweet climb.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 15, 2002

Actually, there is a small crack maybe 5' up and left of the second bolt that will accept a small stopper or two. I think this will keep you from cratering, but it's still a bit run out before you hit the lower portion of the dihedral. Not falling is good advice ;-)
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 15, 2002

I looked carefully at the crack and decided it was not good enough to leave a piece in it. There are no solid placements that will stay put (the route wanders a little above there making it easier for the piece to wiggle loose). The crack if (I remember correctly) is roughly a horzontal (actually a diagonal up and right on a vertical face). Bad idea for a stopper placement. Just my opinion ...
By Michael Kullman
Oct 15, 2002

I think the vertical crack I am referring to is actually intersects the horizontal crack you are talking about (think they are part of the same flake). It seemed like we had a solid small stopper placement there.

I believe you can actually see it in the picture of Sunshine Dihedral in the Hubbell guide book (pg 62 if you have it). Look directly below the small bush (kind of hard to see, almost center of photo) just to the right of the base of the dihedral, right of the climbers rope. (Of course the guy in the picture *really* ran it out, didn't bother clipping bolts, his first piece looks to be 40+ feet up....)

But in any case I do totally agree that it's still a run out to the base of the dihedral from that second bolt (even with a stopper placement above it), I should have noted that in the description, thanks for the feedback.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 17, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Somewhat reminiscent of Ruper's 1st pitch in Eldo but a mirror image and harder.

Felt hard for 10a. Today, my partner (rarely falls on 10s) took a whipper. Look for feet R at the crux.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Sep 12, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The old piton is gone at the top! Easier than Upside.

One insecure move.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 12, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Correction: That was Rover's 1st pitch, not Ruper's. Getting old and ... I forgot.
By Bo Johnston
Jun 7, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route! I felt like the crux up off the sloping ledge was a real test of faith. Thin toes and awkward body position makes it a pump towards the end. I was pumped at the last 10 feet but the hold give just the relief for a successful top out! I clipped the two bolts in the begining of the route too and really didn't see how people get all worked up about the runout there. Easy climbing.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 18, 2004

Best route at the crag. Really fun, wild moves out the overhang, with an exciting juggy topout. This thing has good jams, a fair # of feet, and at the top, 2 cracks to use (also, gear is great). My partner doesn't usually lead gear routes harder than 10-, and he had no problems leading this. I don't think I'd upgrade it.
By Adrian Hill
Apr 18, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

5.10b seems about right. Protection is good - take a #4 Camalot or equivalent. No need for the pin to ever be replaced.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2005

This is perhaps the most obvious route in the entire canyon when driving down the road. Well worth it with a moderate start but pumpy and sustained crux. The poison ivy bush to the left is very green and healthy this year. Fortunately you don't need to grab anything near it, but it is only about 1 foot away in one section.
By Cale Farnham
Sep 7, 2009

Loved this route! Fell at the crux but dialed in the moves and am definately comming back for the redpoint! Super pumpy lie backs to the top of the roof! Must do in the Vrain!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route, great fun, but only 10a?? OK, well, I have a riddle for you.

Q: What goes "FFFFFFFfftffffttttt... WHUMP!!!! Argh?!?!?"
A: That's someone getting hit by a sandbag.

Solid 5.10 with the crux being getting up into the dihedral and established there on your feet.
By slim
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

How did you like the flake jug thing at the end? I remember wanting desperately NOT to reef on the thing... and then desperately reefing on the thing. Pretty cool route.
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Jun 13, 2011

There is a second pitch to the climb twenty feet to the climber's left of the top of P1 (same 2nd pitch as Fever Dance). You'll see a dihedral with a crack and a wide slot above. The crux of the pitch is squirming through the slot (nice to have 1 #4 Camalot or #4 Friend). After topping out, walk climber's left and then scramble down skier's left back to the ledge and rappel off the chain anchors.
By Andy Kowles
From: Longtuckles
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb! If you try to go straight in with the jams, it will feel harder...if you jam a little bit and transition to layback technique for a couple moves it feels right on at 10a. No way this is 10c!

Great climb! Great finish!
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 22, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You can clip the third bolt on Upside the Cranium with a long sling. Done this way, it does not feel very runout.
By George Bracksieck
Dec 6, 2016

In 1981, Mike Endicott led me up this. There were no bolts or adjacent routes, but the old fixed pin was there. I recall reading/hearing (at sometime since) that Layton Kor placed that pin.

We continued up what is now known as "Alvino's Variation," which I led. Gillett's guidebook says that Alvino and partner did the FA in 1993. It was probably climbed by Kor and/or others long before 1993, because this is the most obvious way to the top, and it is fun.

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