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What a great stance for a clip! :0P Photo by Wes...
This is the bolt line furthest to the right. It has two very nice cruxes. The first is a power balance move right off the deck. This is a sweet move that can be approached from a couple different angles, depending on your height. It is protected by the first bolt which is clipped before starting up. A mix of good edges and delicate smears takes one past the second bolt to the upper crux, protected by the third and final bolt. Again, height and reach determine the best line and this one is all about smearing. Once above this second crux, the wall lays down for some easy climbing to the chains. But the fun isn't over; this upper half of the climb is like an easy version of Let it Bleed. When you're 20' above your last pro and climbing with no actual holds you don't tend to think about how easy the climbing is. ;-) The Sundeck sees very few ascents but this one should not be missed!
Last line on the right, before the deck slopes up to the right.
3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")
BETA PHOTO: Awesome start...
Starting the crux. Photo by Wes Warwick
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 18, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
This route was put up in 1985/1986 by Richard Jensen and Mark Smith, of Riverside Quarry fame. They also put up "Wings of Steel" A4/A5 on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley.