REI Community
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Captain Cook T 
South Buttress T 
Sunken Treasure S 
Sunset Streaks S 
Unsorted Routes:

Sunset Streaks 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Brown & Keli Balo
Page Views: 10,259
Submitted By: Daniel Wade on Feb 28, 2012  with updates from keli

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Here is a rough reference to the location of the c...

  • Seasonal Nesting Advisory MORE INFO >>>
  • Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Very well bolted climb and would be safe for emerging leader. Route rating is based on hardest single move.

    P 1 - 100 foot 5.8
    P 2 - 100 foot 5.9
    P 3 - 90 foot 5.10
    P 4 - 60 feet (or so) 5.10
    P 5 - 100 foot 5.10

    There is a variation for the P4 which moves left and crosses over Crap Duster via old pins and then climbs a steep arete to the summit. 5.9+ or 5.10


    Start in the gulley to the right of Crap Duster (the wide crack where the falcons nest) and to the left of Scrotum. If rappelling from the summit, anchors take you right down the dike. From the base of the cliff, the white dike is the most obvious natural line on the face to the left of the South Buttress.


    All you need is 14 draws and a 60 meter rope. 5 rappels off chains at each station will get you to the base. Bring a few long draws to prevent rope drag on 1st pitch.

    Photos of Sunset Streaks Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Location of the top set of anchors.
    BETA PHOTO: Location of the top set of anchors.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
    Pitch 2
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Streaks (pitch 5)
    The Streaks (pitch 5)
    Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors at the top of the route are hidden and har...
    BETA PHOTO: Anchors at the top of the route are hidden and har...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nice new painted bolts
    Nice new painted bolts
    Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch
    Second pitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch
    First pitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet third pitch
    Sweet third pitch

    Comments on Sunset Streaks Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 22, 2017
    By Adam Kimmerly
    Mar 5, 2012

    It's called "Sunset Streaks". 5.10a. FA: Jeff Brown & Keli Balo.
    By Michael Douglas
    From: Yucaipa, CA
    Feb 19, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Great Route! 5 belay/rappel stations. When rappelling, do NOT double rope rappel to make rappelling faster; the rope will get stuck. Each belay/rap station is very comfortable and the climb can be done in three pitches. Bring at least 15 draws if you are planning to link pitches. We did it in 3. The description above is missing ~80ft of the climb.

    P1 - 5.7 overprotected so you can skip bolts. Extend as many as you can!! (~180ft)
    P2 - 5.8 (~90ft) / 5.9+ (~95ft)
    P3 - 5.9 (~90ft)

    By jeffblankman
    From: San Diego, Ca
    Nov 3, 2013

    Super-clean, super-fun climb. The crazy nature of the incut features (like someone used a tile saw to cut handholds/steps) had me literally laughing at times, with a wide grin plastered on my face. The bouldery moves on the last pitch right below the top were my favorite. As far as the "deck potential" re: the first moves off the 2nd and 3rd belays: yeah, it's there, but you're really not all that high up. Not too much to sweat about IMO. We also linked Ps 1/2 and 3/4 w/60m rope.
    By Dan G0D5H411
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jan 13, 2014
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    We found it made sense to break up the pitch descriptions the same way the rappels are set up (almost any two can be linked):
    1) 5.7 100ft
    2) 5.8 80ft
    3) 5.9 80ft
    4) 5.10a 80ft
    5) 5.9 80ft

    Portions of the first pitch and the entire second pitch were mediocre at best, but once you start following the dike, the climbing was very entertaining. Watch out for the 1/4" relic that protects a funky move on one of the last two pitches! The Beta photo showing the rocks above the top anchors was dead-on and invaluable for finding the route from the summit.
    By Rich Welker
    From: Cardiff, Ca
    Feb 20, 2014
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Bou;dery Move at the exit is awesome and not too hard. The last pitches are terrific! I'd say the route is no harder than solid 5.9 but super fun!
    By Richard Shore
    Dec 8, 2014

    PSA - a fair amount of loose debris and rock exists on nearly every belay ledge, and this casual sport climb should be treated with a bit of alpine respect. A very inconsiderate local party who was rappelling in from above trundled a large block from 500' up, not knowing there were climbers directly below. It exploded into grapefruit-sized blocks above our heads and all around us, nearly bringing a tragic end to our day of fun in the sun. One particular member of this party was adamant that his actions were justified for the sake of "safety", without even saying so much as "I'm sorry." I'm all for cleaning routes, but ALWAYS assume there is another party below, especially on A PERFECT SUNDAY AFTERNOON IN PEAK SEASON. Wait until after dark on a weekday to knock loose stuff off, AFTER FIRST CHECKING THE BASE OF THE CLIFF FOR OTHERS. And YELL "ROCK" a thousand goddamn times before you do something so stupid. Rant over.
    By TactiCool
    From: Republic Of Korea
    Jul 2, 2015

    I didn't find anything in the 5.10a range. No harder than 5.9. Fun route and not even 8 miles away from the in-laws!
    By Obecian
    Jan 26, 2016
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    If rapping in from the top walk past the summit reg by about 30 yards then head for the cliff. We spent a solid 30 minutes wandering around looking for the start.
    By Eric M Parks
    From: Campo, CA
    Oct 8, 2016
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Cleaned the lose rock off of the ramp on P2 and away from the anchors on top of P3. Every where else was clean.
    By Safty Third
    From: San Diego, CA
    Dec 11, 2016
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Linked 1-2, 3-4, and 5 to the summit. IMO pitches 1-2 aren't worth the extra rappels.

    Highly recommend rapping in. We saw a party struggggling and bushwhacking up to the cliff from the bottom approach.

    I agree that this whole climb can go at 5.9 if you stray right of the bolt line for the majority of the climb. However, I noticed that was the path of least resistance, but also that the bolt line stayed pretty true to the dike. If you stick with the line direct it goes 5.10 for 3-4. I'm not sure about that boulder problem on 5, maybe 9+ or 10a.

    pitches 3-5 were really enjoyable, and pitches 1-2 just seemed contrived to access the feature from the bottom.

    Pitch 3 ledge is pretty chossy, so be really aware if parties are rapping in or belaying above.

    Rap line is easy to find, there is a climbers trail that heads straight down to the chains from just behind the summit block. 60m should work for linking 3-5, but I'm not sure if 60m would work for linking 1-2.

    Pitches 3-5 are money.
    By alex chapman
    Jan 26, 2017

    Does anyone know the exact dates the wall is closed due to the nesting falcons?
    By pcass
    Feb 22, 2017

    this year the closure begins on march 1st. here is a link for more information
    By Emily Ammon
    Aug 22, 2017

    I did NOT find pitch 1 to be a 5.7 or 5.8... perhaps it had to do with height, fatigue from the hike in, or just lack of experience on granite, but... both partner and I were semi-appalled at the low ratings on the first and second pitches.

    Then again, we hiked up for about 2 hours with the 25lb packs in the middle of a summer day. Could've used a couple more gallons of water and probably more food too. Took about 45 minutes or more to find the bolts. Note that they are a ways down some trails and past the summit. Should be a few cairns to mark them.

    Otherwise cool climb, though. My first big(ger) multipitch experience.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About